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Pitch 1: Start by climbing the white rock leading to the varnished thin corner above. Continue up through a section of finger locks and stemming. The corner will begin to open up into hands and eventually an easy chimney. Solution pockets on the side walls keep the grade to a very pleasent 5.9. At the top of the chimney pull into a large "hole". This is a very unique feature and certainly adds to the route quality. There are 2 ways to exit the hole. The first is to squeeze out the obvious opening near the middle of the constriction. The second is to climb out the bottom and up the outside. Both options are about the same difficulty. However both options will not be available to everyone...fat kids(like me) will have to use the later. Continue upward via stemming and jamming. The pitch ends at 2 good bolts on the right hand wall. 180ft, 5.9.
Pitch 2: Start by continuing up the corner for 20ft until you reach an obvious roof. Undercling and layback out the roof. Continue climbing the nice varnished crack above. Belay at it's top on a large ledge.
Descent: Traverse the ledge to the west/north west. This is the terrace at the top of the first pitch on Cat in the hat. Rappel CITH with 1 60M rope ...doing 2 rappels. 160ft, 5.9+.
A very good climb.
On the south east corner of the mescalito. This is the large open book corner seen just before turning the corner to the south face.
Single set, nuts to #4 camalot size. Optional #5.
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
Mar 11, 2009
A comment to avoid clutter in the descrpition.
It seems that there is very little information out there concerning this route. Even in The newest guidebook there was simply a basic "it's there". This is curious to me because of the high quality climbing we found. I really think that alot of folks will enjoy this moderate and unique route...the "hole" on the first pitch is like nothing I've climbed in Red rock or elsewhere. Also the rock quality is quite good on the route...there is still some questionable rock... but there is also tons of varnish.
While on this climb I wondered about the name...does it have to do with the solution pockets that resemble a Wasp nest? Certianly interesting formations!