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This is the awesome triple-tiered tower that crowns the end of the ridge. It is home to some of the longer, harder routes of the Needles such as The Romantic Warrior and Sea of Tranquility. A few short classics like the Howling and the Titantic are also located here. Climbs go up all sides of the Warlock, and your approach may vary depending on where you want to climb.
Climbs on the upper North, West, and East faces are accessed via the main trail. Climbs that begin on the lower reaches of the Warlock can be accessed from this point as well (via rappels), or by decending down between the Sorcerer and Witch and hiking all the way around, or by approaching from Voodoo Dome (separate trailhead). I'm not sure which way is the most expedient...
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Warlock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Warlock:
Imaginary Voyage 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
South Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, 8 pitches, 800'
The Howling 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
The Spell 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Flying Warlocks 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Ghostbumps 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Sea of Tranquility 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 Trad, 5 pitches
Romantic Warrior 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, 9 pitches
Featured Route For The Warlock
South Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Warlock
This route has a very distinct psychological crux on the 6th pitch leaving the Pedestal; a technically easy but nervy face traverse with plenty of exposure and great position. Lower pitches contain a number of "don't screw this up" moves with dubious protection available, par for the course on the longer routes ascending the south face of the Warlock. There is also a goodly ration of wide crack climbing and some chimneying thrown in for fun. While the climbing is not technically dif...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for The Warlock