The Warlock  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  81,845. Good page?    Administrators:  Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu 70° | 46° 73° | 50° 75° | 46° 64° | 41° 61° | 41°

The Warlock from White Punks on Dope.

Description 

This is the awesome triple-tiered tower that crowns the end of the ridge. It is home to some of the longer, harder routes of the Needles such as The Romantic Warrior and Sea of Tranquility. A few short classics like the Howling and the Titantic are also located here. Climbs go up all sides of the Warlock, and your approach may vary depending on where you want to climb.

Decent from the summit involves rapping (two ropes) to the North.

Getting There 

Climbs on the upper North, West, and East faces are accessed via the main trail. Climbs that begin on the lower reaches of the Warlock can be accessed from this point as well (via rappels), or by decending down between the Sorcerer and Witch and hiking all the way around, or by approaching from Voodoo Dome (separate trailhead). I'm not sure which way is the most expedient...

The Classics

Featured Route For The Warlock

South Face 5.9 PG13  CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Warlock

This route has a very distinct psychological crux on the 6th pitch leaving the Pedestal; a technically easy but nervy face traverse with plenty of exposure and great position. Lower pitches contain a number of "don't screw this up" moves with dubious protection available, par for the course on the longer routes ascending the south face of the Warlock. There is also a goodly ration of wide crack climbing and some chimneying thrown in for fun. While the climbing is not technically dif...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Warlock Slideshow

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View west from the last pitch of Imaginary Voyage.