This is the awesome triple-tiered tower that crowns the end of the ridge. It is home to some of the longer, harder routes of the Needles such as The Romantic Warrior and Sea of Tranquility. A few short classics like the Howling and the Titantic are also located here. Climbs go up all sides of the Warlock, and your approach may vary depending on where you want to climb.
Climbs on the upper North, West, and East faces are accessed via the main trail. Climbs that begin on the lower reaches of the Warlock can be accessed from this point as well (via rappels), or by decending down between the Sorcerer and Witch and hiking all the way around, or by approaching from Voodoo Dome (separate trailhead). I'm not sure which way is the most expedient...
Browse More Classics in The Warlock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Warlock:
Imaginary Voyage 5.9- Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III
South Face 5.9 PG13 Trad, 8 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III
The Howling 5.10a PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
The Spell 5.10 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
Ghostbumps 5.11 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Romantic Warrior 5.12b Trad, 9 pitches
Featured Route For The Warlock
South Face 5.9 PG13 CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Warlock
This route has a very distinct psychological crux on the 6th pitch leaving the Pedestal; a technically easy but nervy face traverse with plenty of exposure and great position. Lower pitches contain a number of "don't screw this up" moves with dubious protection available, par for the course on the longer routes ascending the south face of the Warlock. There is also a goodly ration of wide crack climbing and some chimneying thrown in for fun. While the climbing is not technically dif...[more] Browse More Classics in CA