The Warlock Rock Climbing
The Warlock from White Punks on Dope.
This is the awesome triple-tiered tower that crowns the end of the ridge. It is home to some of the longer, harder routes of the Needles such as The Romantic Warrior and Sea of Tranquility. A few short classics like the Howling and the Titantic are also located here. Climbs go up all sides of the Warlock, and your approach may vary depending on where you want to climb.
Decent from the summit involves rapping (two ropes) to the North.
Climbs on the upper North, West, and East faces are accessed via the main trail. Climbs that begin on the lower reaches of the Warlock can be accessed from this point as well (via rappels), or by decending down between the Sorcerer and Witch and hiking all the way around, or by approaching from Voodoo Dome (separate trailhead). I'm not sure which way is the most expedient...
Weather station 10.1 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Warlock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Warlock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Warlock:
South Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG13 Trad, 8 pitches, 800'
The Howling 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Ghostbumps 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches
The Spell 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Planet Waves 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For The Warlock
The Spell 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b CA
: Southern Sierra
: ... : The Warlock
The Spell is the obvious chimney splitting the West face of the Warlock. Pitch 1: approach pitch over a chockstone to the base of the chimney proper.Pitch 2: a full 60m pitch up the chimney. You can walk your biggest cam up with you....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
View west from the last pitch of Imaginary Voyage.
West face of the Warlock, as seen from the summit ...
From: Las Vegas
Jul 26, 2011
We were able to rappel down the northeast face using a single 60m rope.
Rap 1 - a short rap (80') down the summit block from the eastern most chains. Rap past an anchor to a second anchor on a big ledge (approximately 50' right of the last pitch of Imaginary Voyage). There is a rope connecting the upper and lower anchors for some reason.
Rap 2 - Rap a FULL 100' down and right. Just over the ridge is a set of anchors that you will have to reach down and clip in with a 60m rope. Kind of sketchy. I'm not sure why the anchor wasn't installed 5' up higher.
Rap 3 - Rap a 100' down and angling slightly left to reach the ground.
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 11, 2012
For a rappel-topo and interesting historical notes, visit here