The Wanker Rail
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Cox, Crawley, Bloom, Jones |
Page Views: | 723 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Colin Cox on Nov 3, 2011 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Climb a nice 5.10 start, beginning with an interesting move before the first clip. Approach the Wanker Rail with a devious sequence of hand switches on the arete, avoiding the urge to pull up and right into Man For the Job. This section may feel contrived, but the Rail needed to be climbed. Clip the crux bolt and stay low on good feet and small crimps, then creep up left on the Wanker Rail with some hidden holds way out left. Pimp the rail past another bolt to a ledge, finish up the slabby dihedral.
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