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Routes in The Waltz Formation
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Bohemian Flares T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Compact Disc T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Death Route T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Dancing T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Disco Ball T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disco Inferno T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Funky Dynamics T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I Am A Wicked Child (2nd Pitch) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Paso Doble T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Passing the Torch T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Patrick Swayze S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pumpkin-Spiced Mocha Frito T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rhino Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Schuhplattler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slam Dance T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Time Warp S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Too Hot to Tango T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trundler's Delight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Twist, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unnamed/Jimbo's T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Waltz, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Pat Callis, Brian Leo, July 18, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 7,851 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Ty Morrison-Heath on Jun 12, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
Description
A fun Canyon romp, The Waltz ascends up three large steps from close to the canyon floor. The pitches end on huge ledges with bolted anchors. The faces all go with pretty reasonable protection.
Pitch 1 (5.6)
Head up aiming for a large ledge over easy blocky terrain (5.4) and gain the face. I wouldn't suggest placing too much on this first bit or the rope drag will be somewhat unbearable later. Head up the face through many small cracks and huge jugs. The bolts are on the left right as you top out. You can scramble off the right side from here if you don't wish to climb any further. If wishing to continue, scramble along the top of the rib to the base of the next pitch.
Pitch 2 (5.6)
Head up following the large crack that takes great gear and is a super enjoyable romp. Anchors are on the left or the right when you top out this pitch. To continue onto pitch three, head to the back of the rib and either rappel or downscramble the fin to the base of the next tier (gear anchor). You can also rappel off the right side to escape from the top of this rib.
Alternate Pitch 2: Trundler's Delight (5.10)
Pitch 3 (5.6)
From the base of the fin, climb up through various flaring crack features (tricky gear) to gain a broad ledge and then head to a tree towards the right edge. Set up a belay here and bring the second up this very short (but exposed) pitch. Mostly done simply to set up for the last pitch and to avoid rope drag.
Pitch 4 (5.8)
Starting from the south edge of the belay tree, climb up a broad corner approximately 15 feet and then step out left onto the main face. Climb up the main face using whatever features seem most interesting (many variations possible), generally staying on the right 1/3rd of the face, aiming for a large ledge crossing the face at 3/4 height. This ledge is most easily exited by taking a groove from the left edge to the top, but many variations are possible.There is a two bolt anchor on a small ledge just before the top that makes a convenient belay. Due to the wandering nature of this pitch, watch out for rope drag. More difficult to protect than the former pitches, this last one is skipped by many just looking for a warmup/romp. Descend by walking off the backside to the right (south).
Alternate Pitch 4: "The Patagonia Variation" (5.8)
Start as normal, but continue up the broad corner through several overlaps (tricky gear), aiming for a bolt ~50' up from the belay. From the bolt, continue up and then left onto the main face.
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