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The Waltz Formation
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The Waltz 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Pat Callis, Brian Leo, July 18, 1975
Page Views: 1,349
Submitted By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Jun 12, 2012

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Approach pitch- around corner to bolts

Description 

A fun Canyon romp, The Waltz ascends up three large steps from close to the canyon floor. The pitches end on huge ledges with bolted anchors. The faces all go with pretty reasonable protection.

Pitch 1 (5.6)
Head up aiming for a large ledge over easy blocky terrain (5.4) and gain the face. I wouldn't suggest placing too much on this first bit or the rope drag will be somewhat unbearable later. Head up the face through many small cracks and huge jugs. The bolts are on the left right as you top out. You can scramble off the right side from here if you don't wish to climb any further. If wishing to continue scramble along the top of the rib to the base of the next pitch.

Pitch 2 (5.6)
Head up following the large crack that takes great gear and is a super enjoyable romp. Anchors are on the left or the right when you top out this pitch. To continue onto pitch three head to the back of the rib and either rappel or downscramble to the base of the next rib. You can rappel off the right side to escape from the top of this rip.

Pitch 3 (5.6)
Climb on the right side of the formation aiming for a small tree. Set up a belay here and belay the second up this very short pitch. Mostly done simply to set up for the last pitch and to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 4 (5.8)
Climb up a few feet and then step out onto the face. Climb to the top using the various features. More difficult to protect than the former pitches this last one is skipped by many just looking for a warmup/romp. Descend by walking off the backside to the right(South).

Location 

Park right after the 35 mph bridge and hike in until you hit the second trail that heads up the hill (Denoted by a small SMCC Climber Access Sign) and continue up the talus field until you reach the base of a large formation. This is The Waltz formation and the climb named after the formation starts on the right side up the hill around 10 feet. Look for a large ledge that gains the face.

Protection 

Double rack from .3-#3 Camalots. Nut placements are possible but I've lead it easily without.


Photos of The Waltz Slideshow Add Photo
3rd Pitch
3rd Pitch
2nd pitch
2nd pitch
Pitch 2-Sweet!!
Pitch 2-Sweet!!

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