|Type:||Trad, TR, 40'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||adam winslow on Mar 23, 2011|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Wallow||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 25, 2011
|4 stars?!? really?|
By adam winslow
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 25, 2011
|It's just an opinion Karl, nothing is stopping you from voting with your own opinion. I personally seek the wide :)|
By Tom Lausch
From: Madison WI
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
|How would you possibly protect this thing? I had a 4 big bro and only could use it at the lower section. Also the anchors were in a horrible spot. Not even worth doing.|
By Mark P Thomas
Jan 31, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
If you're used to chimneys, this is well protected if you stay deep enough inside and know how to climb squeeze chimneys. You can only really fall if you fall out, and you can only fall out if you stay too far out to use unnecessary face holds. I'd call this a secure 5.6 chimney in Yosemite Valley, for comparison.
This is a great early chimney lead as it isn't too insecure, long, or sustained, but it is somewhat technical, so for those not used to squeezes, I'd recommend top roping this first. Practice downclimbing to get a sense of how solid you can be in a squeeze.
A single #3 BD C4 is the only piece of gear you'll need for this climb (somewhat optional). It protects a move from the widening chimney as you slot back into a squeeze near the top. Otherwise, technique is your pro. Kneepads can be nice to have.
The bolt anchors are a bit far back and far to the side. The top area is big and easy enough that for belaying a follower I recommend running the rope through the anchor as a TR, downclimb back into the top of the crack, tie off there, and belay from that spot. It is secure, with no rope drag, and you can see and communicate with the follower.
The walkoff is very easy and drops you down by the sandstone block quarry.