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Sandy Corridor
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The Wallow 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 874
Submitted By: adam winslow on Mar 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Inside The Wallow (5.6-5.7).

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This irresistible route makes a great introduction to chimney climbing and a great place to practice a variety of chimney climbing techniques. Starts as an offwidth/squeeze chimney and gradually widens until a stem or body bridge technique must be used near the top.

Location 

Just inside the Sandy Corridor on the right. This chimney separates the first rock formation from the larger formation further inside the corridor. Easy walk-off to the right leads down to the mouth of the corridor.

Protection 

There are 2 bolts at the top of the formation but you will need an extra rope or a lot of webbing (maybe 30'?) to get a top rope set up in the right place. There is also a 3"-4" pod above the climb that might be useful as a directional.


Photos of The Wallow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlotte at the gear placement, reaching the seco...
Charlotte at the gear placement, reaching the seco...
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlotte leading the crux of The Wallow (5.6-5.7)...
Charlotte leading the crux of The Wallow (5.6-5.7)...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Wallow (5.6-5.7).
BETA PHOTO: The Wallow (5.6-5.7).
Rock Climbing Photo: After the crux of The Wallow (5.6-5.7).
After the crux of The Wallow (5.6-5.7).
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the lower section
Looking down at the lower section
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper section of the route
The upper section of the route

Comments on The Wallow Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 25, 2011

4 stars?!? really?
By adam winslow
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 25, 2011

It's just an opinion Karl, nothing is stopping you from voting with your own opinion. I personally seek the wide :)
By Tom Lausch
From: Madison WI
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X

How would you possibly protect this thing? I had a 4 big bro and only could use it at the lower section. Also the anchors were in a horrible spot. Not even worth doing.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Jan 31, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

If you're used to chimneys, this is well protected if you stay deep enough inside and know how to climb squeeze chimneys. You can only really fall if you fall out, and you can only fall out if you stay too far out to use unnecessary face holds. I'd call this a secure 5.6 chimney in Yosemite Valley, for comparison.

This is a great early chimney lead as it isn't too insecure, long, or sustained, but it is somewhat technical, so for those not used to squeezes, I'd recommend top roping this first. Practice downclimbing to get a sense of how solid you can be in a squeeze.

A single #3 BD C4 is the only piece of gear you'll need for this climb (somewhat optional). It protects a move from the widening chimney as you slot back into a squeeze near the top. Otherwise, technique is your pro. Kneepads can be nice to have.

The bolt anchors are a bit far back and far to the side. The top area is big and easy enough that for belaying a follower I recommend running the rope through the anchor as a TR, downclimb back into the top of the crack, tie off there, and belay from that spot. It is secure, with no rope drag, and you can see and communicate with the follower.

The walkoff is very easy and drops you down by the sandstone block quarry.

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