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The routes and the setting at the Wall of Oz are spectacular. There are only four routes and they all start off of an exposed 3-4 foot wide ledge that runs the length of the wall on the side of the steep hillside. The routes are exposed and stick-clipping the first bolts is recommended, especially on Flying Monkeys and Cowardly Lion where if you were to fall off the ledge, you would fall about 10 feet to the ground and then continue to tumble down the steep rocky hillside. The wall faces southwest and can be hot in the summer until it pulls in the shade around 2pm.
To get to the Wall of Oz, park at the picnic area about 11 miles up the canyon past the golf course. Once at the picnic area, look back down the road. The cliff is the obvious white square in the middle of the huge wall. To get to the cliff, walk back down the road and bushwack your way up the hill, approaching the ledge beneath the wall from the left. The trail is overgrown and needs to be re-established. Total approach time is about 10 minutes.
4 Total Routes
Featured Route For The Wall Of Oz
I'm Melting 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Wall Of Oz
This route is the second route from the left. It starts with 3 bolts of 5.10 climbing followed by a wicked crux section on tiny crimps and pockets with no footholds. The fourth bolt is difficult to clip. It's actually easier to bypass it and clip it after you've done the crux and it's at your knees and the last bolt you've clipped is three feet below your feet. Fairly creepy. Luckily, it's probably only 5.11a after the crux. While attempting the first ascent I broke a hold and fell on the 5.11a ...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
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