The routes and the setting at the Wall of Oz are spectacular. There are only four routes and they all start off of an exposed 3-4 foot wide ledge that runs the length of the wall on the side of the steep hillside. The routes are exposed and stick-clipping the first bolts is recommended, especially on Flying Monkeys and Cowardly Lion where if you were to fall off the ledge, you would fall about 10 feet to the ground and then continue to tumble down the steep rocky hillside. The wall faces southwest and can be hot in the summer until it pulls in the shade around 2pm.
To get to the Wall of Oz, park at the picnic area about 11 miles up the canyon past the golf course. Once at the picnic area, look back down the road. The cliff is the obvious white square in the middle of the huge wall. To get to the cliff, walk back down the road and bushwack your way up the hill, approaching the ledge beneath the wall from the left. The trail is overgrown and needs to be re-established. Total approach time is about 10 minutes.
This route is the second route from the left. It starts with 3 bolts of 5.10 climbing followed by a wicked crux section on tiny crimps and pockets with no footholds. The fourth bolt is difficult to clip. It's actually easier to bypass it and clip it after you've done the crux and it's at your knees and the last bolt you've clipped is three feet below your feet. Fairly creepy. Luckily, it's probably only 5.11a after the crux. While attempting the first ascent I broke a hold and fell on the 5.11a ...[more]Browse More Classics in SD
I am writing to let the climbing community know that there is a very real possibility that the first two bolts on the Cowardly Lion are over tightened. These are the only two bolts of this kind. At the time I was using Mountain Mania's drill which could drill a half inch hole no problem, so I wanted to experiment with a half inch bolt. I purchased two of them from the local bolt shop. They are exceedingly strong bolts, but because of the design when they were tightened to the normal tightness the nut was barely on the bolt, so I tightened it even more. Again I repeat these are the only two bolts of this sort on any of my routes in the canyon. If these bolts were to go it could have disastrous results. If someone would like to take the responsibility to replace them I would be greatly indebted to them, and if not I will do it when I return this summer to do my project called Faith across from the sunshine wall.
Coordinates for Parking lot: N44°26.24', W103°52.57'... is anyone interested in redeveloping the trail? Perhaps we could get a group together! I bushwhacked my way up there today, it was a chore to say the least!