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Wait of the World, The T 

The Wait of the World 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 600', Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3 [details]
FA: Steve Bartlett, Chip Wilson, spring 1995
Season: sunny south face
Page Views: 507
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Jan 27, 2014

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pitch 2 hook

Description 

Start near the right (east) end of the expansive south face, on a rib just left of a large, deep hollow. Look for two bolts to start.
1. From the bolts head up and left to a nice crack on the arete. Work up this. Ease past a closet-size, barely-attached block with care. Thinner nailing ends at a 3-bolt belay (A3, 80').
2. Thin seams lead up and right to a bold ladder with occasional hooking. End at a nice ledge (A3, 80').
3. Climb a flake system at the left end of the ledge, past one bolt, to a shallow dihedral. Up this to a bolted belay under a triangular roof (A2+, 80').
4. Over the roof to a splitter, one-inch crack. Romp up this to a bolted, hanging belay (A2, 120').
5. Move up and left into an easy dihedral to a bolt. Tension left to a shallow groove, from which hooking on broken crockery gets one over the caprock to, finally, a big comfy ledge (A2+, 80').
6. Walk the belay 30 feet right (to a 3-bolt rap station) then scamper up a 5.8 chimney to the summit.

The bolt on pitch 3 was where the decision to rope-solo a new route in such a remote location in February/March began to seem not such a great idea and I retreated, eventually returning with a partner. Still bugs me, placing that bolt, there's a placement there.

Location 

This is on the south side of the formation. The route goes to the large, main summit. There's still a drop off that prevent easy (non-5th class) access from above. Tony Wilson and Russell Hooper added another route up the north side but I'm not sure if his route goes to the same summit or to a different pinnacle further west.

Protection 

The whole nine yards. Bunch of beaks all the way to largest cams. Include a selection of hooks. Also include a bunch (12? that many?) standard angles for pitch 4 (the crack is kinda too choked with mud for cams to work without a struggle).


Photos of The Wait of the World Slideshow Add Photo
me, tensioning across pitch 5, or something....
me, tensioning across pitch 5, or something....
Looking down pitch 2
Looking down pitch 2
Topo of Wait of the World
Topo of Wait of the World
me, cleaning pitch 4
me, cleaning pitch 4
Chip jumaring on pitch 5. A storm rolled across fr...
Chip jumaring on pitch 5. A storm rolled across fr...

Comments on The Wait of the World Add Comment
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By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Feb 10, 2014

Excellent! Was wondering when some more stuff was going to be posted about the routes back here.....
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