The Wait of the World
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Start near the right (east) end of the expansive south face, on a rib just left of a large, deep hollow. Look for two bolts to start.
1. From the bolts head up and left to a nice crack on the arete. Work up this. Ease past a closet-size, barely-attached block with care. Thinner nailing ends at a 3-bolt belay (A3, 80').
2. Thin seams lead up and right to a bold ladder with occasional hooking. End at a nice ledge (A3, 80').
3. Climb a flake system at the left end of the ledge, past one bolt, to a shallow dihedral. Up this to a bolted belay under a triangular roof (A2+, 80').
4. Over the roof to a splitter, one-inch crack. Romp up this to a bolted, hanging belay (A2, 120').
5. Move up and left into an easy dihedral to a bolt. Tension left to a shallow groove, from which hooking on broken crockery gets one over the caprock to, finally, a big comfy ledge (A2+, 80').
6. Walk the belay 30 feet right (to a 3-bolt rap station) then scamper up a 5.8 chimney to the summit.
The bolt on pitch 3 was where the decision to rope-solo a new route in such a remote location in February/March began to seem not such a great idea and I retreated, eventually returning with a partner. Still bugs me, placing that bolt, there's a placement there.
This is on the south side of the formation. The route goes to the large, main summit. There's still a drop off that prevent easy (non-5th class) access from above. Tony Wilson and Russell Hooper added another route up the north side but I'm not sure if his route goes to the same summit or to a different pinnacle further west.
The whole nine yards. Bunch of beaks all the way to largest cams. Include a selection of hooks. Also include a bunch (12? that many?) standard angles for pitch 4 (the crack is kinda too choked with mud for cams to work without a struggle).
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Feb 10, 2014
Excellent! Was wondering when some more stuff was going to be posted about the routes back here.....