The Voodoo That You Do
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Doug breaks onto the slab above the chimney start.
This is a variation of the Cave of Eternal Stench
. It goes right from the 5th bolt out to a 2nd crack to the right to avoid the harder left crack.
Start on Cave of Eternal Stench
out of the cave with some chimney stems (crux). Move up onto the slab. Follow 4 more bolts. Above the 5th bolt, traverse right to a 2nd crack. Continue until it fades, then move left to clip another bolt. Finish at a 2 bolt anchor with chains.
If you lower off the anchors with your gear in place using a 70m rope, you'll definitely need to watch the rope as touching down off the slab is more than 35m.
6 bolts, nuts & cams to #1 or #2 Camalot. 2 ropes or a 70m rope (stretcher).
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nice route. Think I clipped the 5th bolt and then moved into the crack and moved back to the bolt line around the 7th bolt which is just below the anchors. Didn't use anything bigger than 0.75 Camalot although you could have found a placement for something larger.
By Alex A
Sep 9, 2013
Fun climb, the variation is little easier than the standard route.
By George Bracksieck
Aug 7, 2015
I got a bad case of rope drag while leading this pitch. The route starts in the right portion of the cave, where lies the first bolt. Above the chockstone (which I avoided touching), I moved left to the second bolt. I then moved up and right to a shallow nut placement (to help protect the long runout to the third bolt), then moved up and left to the third bolt, then moved right and up to gear placements above the fifth bolt, and moved left to the sixth (last) bolt.
The bolts are far apart. Until well past the fifth bolt, good gear placements are difficult to find. Some moves seemed harder than 7+. The anchors are shared with the 15-bolt 10d that starts to the left of the cave. I could have taken more long slings to extend clips and placements, but those would have added to the potential fall distances. Instead, I recommend using double-rope technique (with thicker "half" ropes because of the potential for long falls onto a single strand).