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Butler Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dysecdysis T 
I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa S 
Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee In September S 
Secret of Mother Butler (aka Appetite for Destruction), The T 
Spot Craft T 
Viper, The T 
Washed Up Never Was Beens T 

The Viper 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Don Wilson & Jack Marshall, 1988
Page Views: 318
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 16, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Approaching the top during a twilight ascent. Phot...


This route is on the west side about 25' south of "The Secret of Mother Butler." A very large nolina is at the base of the route. Climb double cracks for about 30' and then veer left over two bulges (cruxes) before making committing moves back right near the top to the rappel station. Nice climb with varied movement (3 out of 5 stars).


Medium stoppers, small to medium TCU's, and cams to 3" provide adequate protection. Slings at the top for the rappel can be used as an anchor (cams to back it up).

Photos of The Viper Slideshow Add Photo
Large nolina at the base of The Viper claims anoth...
Large nolina at the base of The Viper claims anoth...

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By Vernon Stiefel
Nov 19, 2003

The exit move is not on loose rock but requires some difficult traversing without protection. A fall would be undesirable (of course) but probably not result in injury.
By Murf
Dec 8, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

100 route, multiple cruxes with rests in between. I exited to the left rather than the right. This protects well, but may be a .10d move.

Edited to say: .10d?? seems harder without the pockets full of sand, and that was following.
By Randy
May 21, 2006
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A good and varied route. Also exited out left (seemed 10d/11a that way -- but I'm light). 3 of 5 stars.

Gave it another star to balance out AJ's ultra low star rating.
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