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Nautilus
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Tempest 
Thin Lizzy T 
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Vault T 
Vedajuicer, The T 
Vulture Direct T 
Wall-To-Wall T 
War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Vedajuicer 

Hueco: V11 Font: 8A

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Justin Edl, 2007
Page Views: 3,036
Submitted By: Justin Edl on May 19, 2007

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Some of the hands on this crack. This photo is a ...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a burly little roof crack. Start with a foot in the first pod, which is about a foot from where the crack starts as a hairline seam, and your hands in the two first knuckle/tips locks that are a few feet further out and about six inches apart. If you start in the flared hands, you are starting too far out. Climb through some bad flared hands and when you can, make a desperate crack switch to the right. After you are established in the second crack, stem out to the boulder behind and to your left, and top out on that boulder, or for full value top out the crack past an abondoned rodent nest that is kind of in the way. The second topout is quite highball, involving a 5.10 or so crack to an easy but delicate mantle on a shelf a good twenty feet up. After mantling the shelf, traverse right and topout the boulder. This problem has cool subtle movement and is pretty much a pure jamming crack. The name was inspired by how hard you have to squeeze on the bad flared hands.

Location 

This is located on the huge boulder that is between The Cupcake and Friday The Thirteenth. The best way to access the problem is through the cave which is more or less on the east side of the boulder.

Protection 

A pad or two.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 15, 2014
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 5, 2007

I was just walking around the other day and decided to go see what this thing looks like. At first, I was like "this can't be 5.13" and then I looked up. That'd do it. Impressive send Justin.
By molony
Jul 30, 2008

12 tries, the furthest I got was like 8 inches off the ground. Well done Justin, well done.
By Justin Edl
Jul 30, 2008

Molony, good on you for giving it a whirl! I wish more people would do that! I would recommend getting on The Sparkling Touch and The Process of Belief. Those were the precursors to this.
By molony
Aug 1, 2008

Sparkling Touch is for sure on my to do list. And just to clarify, is it listed in the guide as the Walk in the Park project? And where is the Process of Belief?
By Justin Edl
Aug 1, 2008

AFAIK, The Sparkling Touch never made it into the guide in any form despite being GPSd well before it went to print. The Process of Belief is right off the side of the road a little before the main crow creek crossing (the second one if you are coming from I-80). I should get some mileages for that one. It's the obvious wall that faces the road with a couple of promising looking cracks, which become less promising the closer you get. I'm psyched your interested in these problems molony! If you or anyone wants the beta spray, shoot me a message or call me up. I would be glad to go back out to any of these.
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Aug 30, 2008

13+ hands? Hell yeah! I wish I was around longer to put some real work into this thing. Do you cross off the start with you left hand, or do you bump with your right into the first flared hand?
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Sep 1, 2008

Yes, a joke- but apart from the starting holds it seemed as if the meat of this rig was flared hands. Anyways, this is an amazing line, an I'd be phsyced to work it more.
By Justin Edl
Sep 14, 2008

I start with a thin but bomber right finger lock and a left foot in the pod and cross left into the flared hands. I'm glad you liked the line m-earle.
By Patrick Kingsbury
Jun 8, 2011

Vedajuicer, WY.

By Justin Edl
Jun 8, 2011

Lol, Pat. I think I lived under this rock three or four days a week from mid Nov. to the end of Dec. of one year, and again from late March until some time in May the following spring. I lived there for some days before that, and have been back for numerous subsequent visits. I obviously think highly of this particular rock. :)
By Jay Anderson
Jun 20, 2011

I wonder how long it will take the second ascentionist to put it together. Probably a long while.
By Peewee
Jul 6, 2011

It's definitely hard for the grade. Although it's a bit close to the ground and really easy to dab, it's a very good crack problem.
By Justin Edl
Aug 15, 2014

A note about the start that came up recently: the crack just kind of grows out of the rock (and grows back in at the end :)), so there is not really a visually obvious start. Nonetheless, the starting holds for both the hands and feet are specifically defined. The starting finger lock (first knuckle, middle finger, right hand lock) should be obvious and full of chalk, before the obvious sequence of really bad, flared hands. The starting foot is the left foot in the very first pod in the crack, not the other obvious pod with a years old tick on it about a foot before the starting lock. Believe it or not, where you start with your foot greatly affects the next five moves, which are the crux. Yes this thing is low-ball, but no it is not a dab problem, unless you can't really pull into the crack, in which case you probably can't climb the thing. It's really fun and hard, and a great little workout, especially adding it to doing routes in the area as it's easily done padless ;).

Old scrappy video of the first ascent, Red Snapper thrown in as well*:


  • Smoking is BAD, mmmk? Seriously.