This is a burly little roof crack. Start with a foot in the first pod, which is about a foot from where the crack starts as a hairline seam, and your hands in the two first knuckle/tips locks that are a few feet further out and about six inches apart. If you start in the flared hands, you are starting too far out. Climb through some bad flared hands and when you can, make a desperate crack switch to the right. After you are established in the second crack, stem out to the boulder behind and to your left, and top out on that boulder, or for full value top out the crack past an abondoned rodent nest that is kind of in the way. The second topout is quite highball, involving a 5.10 or so crack to an easy but delicate mantle on a shelf a good twenty feet up. After mantling the shelf, traverse right and topout the boulder. This problem has cool subtle movement and is pretty much a pure jamming crack. The name was inspired by how hard you have to squeeze on the bad flared hands.
This is located on the huge boulder that is between The Cupcake and Friday The Thirteenth. The best way to access the problem is through the cave which is more or less on the east side of the boulder.
AFAIK, The Sparkling Touch never made it into the guide in any form despite being GPSd well before it went to print. The Process of Belief is right off the side of the road a little before the main crow creek crossing (the second one if you are coming from I-80). I should get some mileages for that one. It's the obvious wall that faces the road with a couple of promising looking cracks, which become less promising the closer you get. I'm psyched your interested in these problems molony! If you or anyone wants the beta spray, shoot me a message or call me up. I would be glad to go back out to any of these.
Lol, Pat. I think I lived under this rock three or four days a week from mid Nov. to the end of Dec. of one year, and again from late March until some time in May the following spring. I lived there for some days before that, and have been back for numerous subsequent visits. I obviously think highly of this particular rock. :)
A note about the start that came up recently: the crack just kind of grows out of the rock (and grows back in at the end :)), so there is not really a visually obvious start. Nonetheless, the starting holds for both the hands and feet are specifically defined. The starting finger lock (first knuckle, middle finger, right hand lock) should be obvious and full of chalk, before the obvious sequence of really bad, flared hands. The starting foot is the left foot in the very first pod in the crack, not the other obvious pod with a years old tick on it about a foot before the starting lock. Believe it or not, where you start with your foot greatly affects the next five moves, which are the crux. Yes this thing is low-ball, but no it is not a dab problem, unless you can't really pull into the crack, in which case you probably can't climb the thing. It's really fun and hard, and a great little workout, especially adding it to doing routes in the area as it's easily done padless ;).
Old scrappy video of the first ascent, Red Snapper thrown in as well*: