Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
The Vaporizer is a pretty new rock climb (I think the Fixed Hardware Review Committee approved it in 2005?) and is somewhat obscure, most likely because of its location, but it is excellent and should be on the list for any well-traveled Eldo climber.
The route is sustained and very interesting... typical Eldo-bizarro-weird climbing, but a lot of fun and challenging with multiple 5.11 sections, and only a few 5.10 "rests" here and there.
Begin by starting at the base of the Bulge Wall and climbing Pseudo-Sidetrack for a few pitches (if you're simuling, it is better to tie in close together to avoid rope drag) to the huge ledge with a large pine tree and a dead juniper. I believe this ledge is Juniper Ledge, and it is roughly 250' out from terra firma. From here, move the belay easily up the ramp 30' to a perch at a live juniper. The line of bolts straight up the face above should be obvious.
There's a scary move to the first clip and then the difficulties begin, a second clip, then a fixed wire (a #6 BD), then bolts the rest of the way up the wall and through a roof. This leads to easy but runout climbing up to a big roof system/overlap. Construct a gear belay here, and descend via the East Slabs.
The route is bolted (nine or ten bolts plus an essential fixed wire) yet a little spicy in places, although some gear might mitigate that. We brought a bunch of draws plus a 0.5, 0.75, and #1 Camalot for the anchor and this was fine.
By Steve Annecone From: boulder Jan 25, 2010 rating: 5.11b/c6c+23VIII-24E4 6a
I think this is one of the best 5.11 face pitches in Eldo! It was approved by FHRC and the public in fall 2006, and follows some beautiful, steep rock. Perhaps no move harder than 11b but so sustained that it's comparable in difficulty to other Eldo 11c's when going for the onsight. Thanks to Brad for this excellent line!