Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Kor |
Page Views: | 1,809 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Scott Conner on Sep 2, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk
Details
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with closures are crucial to the eagles’ success.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with closures are crucial to the eagles’ success.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
The Vampire scales the entire face of Vampire Rock in 4 short pitches. Although there is a lot of loose rock on this route, I give it three stars because there are quality sections, it has interesting position, thought provoking moves and it's rare to get this far off the deck in Boulder Canyon. I think it's a Kor route.
P1. There are two ways to start. Either climb the bolted route 'That's Weak' up to the chain anchors, or climb the left angling corner system which starts 20 fee to the right of 'That's Weak' up to the same fate. In keeping with the spirit of the climb, I prefer the original start up the corner system. Some loose rock, but the pro is adequate and it goes at about 5.7. 'That's Weak' is rated .10a but seems easier to me; maybe 5.9 and fun.
P2. Lead up the discontinuous hand and finger crack angling slightly left to the big corner/slot. Climb past two OLD ring pins and work up into the slot (crux). Pull the roof and move right on a low angled slab. Belay about 10 feet up and right of the slot. I combined this pitch with the next one and had insane rope drag.
P3. Work up and left under the big roof. Traverse to the left side of the overhang on slabular terrain, exit onto the ramp and move up to the right to belay at some chains.
P4. Not sure if we did the correct last pitch, but this way was stellar. Climb up the ramp a bit further and work up into a left facing corner with a nice crack. Good jugs lead up to a steep layback and fist crack, past a basketball sized bush (as of 9/3/02) and tops out on a low angled slab with insecure holds. Continue up to find a good belay on level rock. This pitch felt 5.9 to me but is short.
Descent: we walked off to the southwest to gain the steep, vegetated gully. It was kind of annoying but safe. There are chain anchors all over Vampire Rock, so you could probably do 3 or 4 raps to end where you started. Maybe the norm??
This is a fun little adventure that seems to see very little traffic.
P1. There are two ways to start. Either climb the bolted route 'That's Weak' up to the chain anchors, or climb the left angling corner system which starts 20 fee to the right of 'That's Weak' up to the same fate. In keeping with the spirit of the climb, I prefer the original start up the corner system. Some loose rock, but the pro is adequate and it goes at about 5.7. 'That's Weak' is rated .10a but seems easier to me; maybe 5.9 and fun.
P2. Lead up the discontinuous hand and finger crack angling slightly left to the big corner/slot. Climb past two OLD ring pins and work up into the slot (crux). Pull the roof and move right on a low angled slab. Belay about 10 feet up and right of the slot. I combined this pitch with the next one and had insane rope drag.
P3. Work up and left under the big roof. Traverse to the left side of the overhang on slabular terrain, exit onto the ramp and move up to the right to belay at some chains.
P4. Not sure if we did the correct last pitch, but this way was stellar. Climb up the ramp a bit further and work up into a left facing corner with a nice crack. Good jugs lead up to a steep layback and fist crack, past a basketball sized bush (as of 9/3/02) and tops out on a low angled slab with insecure holds. Continue up to find a good belay on level rock. This pitch felt 5.9 to me but is short.
Descent: we walked off to the southwest to gain the steep, vegetated gully. It was kind of annoying but safe. There are chain anchors all over Vampire Rock, so you could probably do 3 or 4 raps to end where you started. Maybe the norm??
This is a fun little adventure that seems to see very little traffic.
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