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DescriptionThis spectacular valley lies deep in the northern Wonderland of Rocks. It lies south of Rattlesnake Canyon and east of Lemon & Lime Domes. Routes are up to 200 feet or more in length, though most are about 100 feet long. There are 5 formations with established routes: The Helmet, The Lynch Crag, The Trad Crag, The Arrowhead, and The Corrugated Wall Climbers made tentative explorations into this area at least 25 years ago and later a few easier multipitch routes were established on The Trad Crag, However, no serous development occurred until the early 1990s. Getting ThereThis valley is best approached from Indian Cove (though it can be approached from Willow Hole, by passing down (east) the rocky gully between Lemon and Lime Domes). From the Rattlesnake Canyon Picnic Area, head up the Rattlesnake Canyon wash for about 400 yards; where the wash makes a sharp left turn (this is where you head right to reach the Corral Wall), the terrain become more jumbled; stay right of the wash/rocky stream on slabs until you head up through a notch; above drop back into the main wash. Follow the wash as it turns right (west)and levels and continue west for several hundred yards; past The Pyramid and Commissioner's Buttress. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Valley of Kings:
The Sanga's On Fire 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet The Trad Crag
Witch Hunt 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Slatanic Area
Firewater Chimney 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet The Arrowhead
Powered by Old English 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet The Lynch Crag
Eagle Talons 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet The Corrugated Wall
The Last Stand 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet The Arrowhead
South of Heaven 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Slatanic Area
Featured Route For The Valley of Kings
Firewater Chimney 5.10b CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Arrowhead
This remarkable route chimneys and stems between the inside of the Arrowhead flake and the main face. Varies from 2+ to maybe 5 feet wide. Great position and continuous climbing make this a classic. Rappel 90+ feet from bolts down the outside face of the flake. A little runnout between the bolts, but you are always in a secure position, even if moving up can be strenuous at times....[more] Browse More Classics in CA |