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Variation to Hunky Monkey 
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Wide Crack 
Zentropa 

The Vaino Step 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Moe Hershoff, Claire Mearns, 2003
Page Views: 512
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 7, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The Vaino Step and nearby routes.

Photo by Vaino ...

Description 

Start on the arete just left of the right-facing corner (Jungle Blues From Jupiter). Stick clip the first bolt and make a series of difficult moves to join The Host.

Description from vainokodas.com/climbing/coroutes/wakeup.html used with permission.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Oct 14, 2012

What the heck? I've always wanted to try the first move on this, so I finally put a stick clip on the first bolt today, and there doesn't seem to be a move at all. If anybody has beta, let me know. This seems like it must be much harder than 12a unless I'm missing something obvious.