The V (aka The Vulva) 5.10d
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Jerry Wingenter enjoying another glorious fall day...
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Description An unusual opportunity to exit a bomb-bay chimney via an offwidth.
Location Where Vulture Overlook offers the tallest expanse of rock, find the alcove with the big roof. A hand crack goes up the roof to the right (Gram Cracker), and a small bomb-bay chimney marks it on the left. Stay left.
Protection A really big cam, some medium nuts, and a couple of hand-sized cams. This is your opportunity to use that #5 or #6 camalot!
| Comments on The V (aka The Vulva) |
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By richard bechler
Oct 31, 2007
| The real name of this route is the Vulva. Named not by the DLFA but a famous CMC'er climber. Who looks not unlike a small furry animal from down under. |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Oct 31, 2007
| I'd believe it was changed for the guidebook, so why not add to the confusion: I'll change it here. |
By Trad Nanny
Aug 27, 2010
rating: 5.10+
| Off-Width fun! A #4 C4 fit beautifully up high in the flare. |
By EB
From: Winona
Aug 28, 2010
| Can't wait to get on this thing!!Looks great- can't believe I've never gotten on it. |
By Ryan Strong
From: Franklin, Wisconsin
May 9, 2013
| Just curious?? Has this been led cleanly yet? I am sure it has, but the old guide only gives first TR info. |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 10, 2013
| Yes, it's been led.
I'm curious why you say the "old" guide "only gives first TR info." Which old guide? The Swartling guides don't give "first" anything! |
By Ryan Strong
From: Franklin, Wisconsin
May 10, 2013
| Doug, I found that tr info in the extremists guide. Most likely going up to climb this today after work. Wasn't sure if many other dl climbers lugged around the big boy cams to climb obscure OW around the park. |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 10, 2013
| Given Bechler's comment above, I wonder if that wasn't just Leo taking a poke at some CMC'er? |
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
May 11, 2013
| The story behind this climb goes like this....While the fellow mentioned by Prez. Bechler may have named the climb he certainly did not climb it. Not sure why Koala bear named it the Vulva, but it certainly fits the climb. I believe this was 1st top roped by some random DLFA hammer case, it was first led in an inspired moment by my esteemed brother of fuk-nes Dave "pigs in space" Langhoff who usually climbed in mountain boots for an extra challenge.He probably led it on hex,s also because he was a friggin traditionalist to the core. This is a great climb although bit short. Combine it with the other nearby cracks and the nearby American dream roof and it all makes sense....or not ! Peace and Fuk-nes Steve S.
Pigs probably rated it 5.10a |
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