|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Monomaniac on Feb 26, 2010|
|Comments on The Usual Suspects||Add Comment|
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Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|The meat of this route is excellent, albeit really short. Unfortunately it is fairly high up, above a pile of nasty flakes. Between the natural sag in the rope (due to the big ledges), the height, and the ankle-breaking flakes, you will probably want a close belay.|
By Nate Reno
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Jan 12, 2014
I'd give 1.5 stars, not as quite as good as New Ethics to the right.
I felt pretty comfortable w/o a stick clip on this one, getting to bolts 1 & 2 felt easy/secure. Like Slim says, you'll want an attentive belayer off the ledge as it's game on as soon as you step off, and the hard part of this climb is pretty good but short.
Dec 7, 2015
|I'll back up with Nate said. I'm not against stick clips, but don't pass this up if you don't have one. You can clip the 3rd bolt from the big ledge, and then after 2 hard moves just getting above the draw, there is a good pocket to clip the next bolt from. Stiff, thin climbing on tiny pockets and dime edges for feet will get you to the horizontal break. This won't be your first 12a!|