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Cactus Cliff
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Usual Suspects, The 
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The Usual Suspects 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rich Aschert
Page Views: 386
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 26, 2010
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Usual Suspects.

Description 

This is a fun climb on mostly good rock that is fairly thin & powerful for the grade.

Begin with an easy mantle onto a spooky perched block above the low ledge (careful not to pull this block off the ledge). Hike up several more tiered ledges and precarious blocks to a stance below the clean wall. Make sure your belayer is watching as you step onto the instantly cruxy panel. A sustained section of sequential pockets & crimps leads past several bolts to a horizontal break. Cruise easier spikey rock to the anchor.


Location 

10' left of the shared start of "New Ethics" & "Midget Toss", begin directly behind the 15' juniper pine south of the trail.


Protection 

~7 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.



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By slim
Administrator
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

The meat of this route is excellent, albeit really short. Unfortunately it is fairly high up, above a pile of nasty flakes. Between the natural sag in the rope (due to the big ledges), the height, and the ankle-breaking flakes, you will probably want a close belay.

By Nate Reno
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Jan 12, 2014

I'd give 1.5 stars, not as quite as good as New Ethics to the right.
I felt pretty comfortable w/o a stick clip on this one, getting to bolts 1 & 2 felt easy/secure. Like Slim says, you'll want an attentive belayer off the ledge as it's game on as soon as you step off, and the hard part of this climb is pretty good but short.