The Urge 5.12d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Frizzel |
| Submitted By: | Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006 |
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Starting up the beautiful double-arete column of T...
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Description This is another basalt ultra-classic that mysteriously receives a sandbag split-grade in the guidebook. As if there were any doubt this was at least 12d! Unless you're a honed basalt master, this will probably feel like 5.13. Perhaps the sandbag is due to the fact that the route is relatively easy most of the way, with a sinister double crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts.
Location Red Columns, the next "outy" left of Big Tuna
Protection Bolts. This route is the most runout in the Upper Gorge. Consider TR rehearsal, or hanging double-length slings off the 4th and 5th bolts so you can clip before executing the cruxes.
Resting up below the crux section of The Urge
| Mid-way through the dyno, which is the second crux...
| Do you have an urge to climb this?
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