Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Upper Gorge
Black Diamond Yosemite Hammer

$99.95 20% off

$79.96

at Backcountry

10    more...
Blackburn Atom SL 6.0 Cyclometer

$89.99 25% off

$67.49

at AlsSports

12    more...
Petzl Quad Ice Pick for Quark

$52.95 25% off

$39.71

at Backcountry

   more...
C.A.M.P. Race 290 Crampons

$159.95 25% off

$119.94

at E-OMC

16    more...
Sugoi Evolution Bib Short - Men's

$119.99 20% off

$95.99

at AlsSports

   more...
MSR Windpro II Camp Stove

$99.99 30% off

$69.99

at AlsSports

2    more...
Kelty Gunnison 2.2 Tent - 2 Person

$199.99 25% off

$149.99

at AlsSports

   more...
Gregory Z35-R Backpack - 1983-2472cu in

$198.95 29% off

$139.27

at Backcountry

11    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Select Route:
Big Tuna 
Bushwhacker 
E type Jag 
Feminazis 
Land of the Lost 
Natural Art 
Shark Infested Waters 
Sign Of The Priest, The 
Urge, The 

The Urge 

5.12d

   
1,012 page views
Good page?   

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Consensus: 5.12d [details]
FA: Jeff Frizzel
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Starting up the beautiful double-arete column of T...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is another basalt ultra-classic that mysteriously receives a sandbag split-grade in the guidebook. As if there were any doubt this was at least 12d! Unless you're a honed basalt master, this will probably feel like 5.13. Perhaps the sandbag is due to the fact that the route is relatively easy most of the way, with a sinister double crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts.


Location 

Red Columns, the next "outy" left of Big Tuna


Protection 

Bolts. This route is the most runout in the Upper Gorge. Consider TR rehearsal, or hanging double-length slings off the 4th and 5th bolts so you can clip before executing the cruxes.



Photos of The Urge Slideshow Add Photo
Resting up below the crux section of The Urge

Resting up below the crux section of The Urge

Mid-way through the dyno, which is the second crux.  After a good shake here, a mantle leads to a great reat and fun 5.11 climbing to the chains.  I used long slings on the two bolts in the crux to reduce the runouts.  This might be lame, use your own judgement, but keep in mind the FA likely dialed it on TR before leading it.

Mid-way through the dyno, which is the second crux...

Do you have an urge to climb this?

Do you have an urge to climb this?