The Uplift 5.10d X
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Pat Ament, Rodger Raubach, & Janice Baker, 1965, FFA: Duncan Ferguson and John Searls, 1974 |
| Submitted By: | Joshua Merriam on Jun 18, 2007 |
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Glad to be past the insecure part.
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Description Climb under a low roof with a piton, and up a clean, right-leaning, left-facing ramp with a seam in the back, then over a second overlap. Angle right on easier terrain to a higher, easy roof with a great jam (Futile Laments), and then follow the arete where the south face joins the west face to the large ledge.
Location The Uplift climbs directly under the arete where the west and south faces of the Wind Tower meet.
Protection A piton in the first roof, tiny TCUs, small nuts, beaks and camhooks above, and shallow but passable #0.5 Camalot out right gets you through the crux.
A ground fall is possible even if the gear holds. Above the overlap, the difficulty eases and many bomber placements ease the mind.
Starting up the slab.
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Clipping the pin under the roof.
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By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2007
| RE: [Tony Bubb]
> How much risk of groundfall was there from the crux?
> How hard did you think the climbing at the groundfall area was?
I felt the crux of the route was the low to mid section between the initial roof, and the second overlap. There are several pro options within that area, which I believed might hold a fall.
After the crux, but before fully establishing above the overlap, I could find no gear, however the moves are <5.9. |
By Rodger Raubach
Jan 2, 2012
rating: 5.10d X
| Just as an historical note: this climb was originally done as an A3 route in 1965 by Pat Ament, myself, and Janice Baker. The first FREE ascent was probably done by Duncan Ferguson as the original poster suggests. The aid on this route was very tricky, and I doubt that any single piece placed would have held any kind of fall. It was very serious as an aid route, and I would venture even more so as a free climb. That said, this route probably doesn't warrant the risks involved.... |
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