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Wind Tower - S Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balls of Fire T 
Beluga T 
Blackjack T 
Diffraction T 
Disguise T 
Futile Laments T 
King's X T 
Lion, The T 
Lower Triagonal T 
Metamorphosis, The T 
Muscle Up, The T 
Punter, The T 
Rainbow Wall T,S 
Scotch and Soda T 
SE Chimney T 
Sheer Terror T 
Uplift, The T 
Ur-Ine Trouble T 
Yellow Traverse, The T 

The Uplift 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b X

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Pat Ament, Rodger Raubach, & Janice Baker, 1965, FFA: Duncan Ferguson and John Searls, 1974
Page Views: 642
Submitted By: Joshua Merriam on Jun 18, 2007

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Glad to be past the insecure part.

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb under a low roof with a piton, and up a clean, right-leaning, left-facing ramp with a seam in the back, then over a second overlap. Angle right on easier terrain to a higher, easy roof with a great jam (Futile Laments), and then follow the arete where the south face joins the west face to the large ledge.

Location 

The Uplift climbs directly under the arete where the west and south faces of the Wind Tower meet.

Protection 

A piton in the first roof, tiny TCUs, small nuts, beaks and camhooks above, and shallow but passable #0.5 Camalot out right gets you through the crux.

A ground fall is possible even if the gear holds. Above the overlap, the difficulty eases and many bomber placements ease the mind.


Photos of The Uplift Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up the slab.
Starting up the slab.
Clipping the pin under the roof.
Clipping the pin under the roof.

Comments on The Uplift Add Comment
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By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2007

RE: [Tony Bubb]
> How much risk of groundfall was there from the crux?
> How hard did you think the climbing at the groundfall area was?

I felt the crux of the route was the low to mid section between the initial roof, and the second overlap. There are several pro options within that area, which I believed might hold a fall.

After the crux, but before fully establishing above the overlap, I could find no gear, however the moves are <5.9.
By Rodger Raubach
Jan 2, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X

Just as an historical note: this climb was originally done as an A3 route in 1965 by Pat Ament, myself, and Janice Baker. The first FREE ascent was probably done by Duncan Ferguson as the original poster suggests. The aid on this route was very tricky, and I doubt that any single piece placed would have held any kind of fall. It was very serious as an aid route, and I would venture even more so as a free climb. That said, this route probably doesn't warrant the risks involved....