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The Upheaval 

5.9

   
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Type: Sport, 85 feet
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
FA: Glenn Thomas,Bob Rentka and Rick Thompson
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BP leading up Upheaval 9-2010.

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Description 

Sweet slab.

Belay from the ledge or you will not be able to lower the leader to the ground with anything shorter than a 60m rope.

Originally a 5.10c R trad line, it was bolted because it saw only one repeat ascent in 5 years. Since its bolting it has become very popular.

Fun and spicy moves up the slab. Lots of on-your-feet climbing makes this one a classic in my book.


Location 

Right most route on the slabs, starts off higher ledge.


Protection 

8 bolts to nasty, needing to be replaced, anchors.



Comments on The Upheaval Add Comment
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By Vicki Schwantes
From: Washington, DC
Sep 7, 2010

This is a great climb! Very thoughtful. I think the anchors have been replaced, they looked good. I took a fall right below the 6th bolt. I didn't get the move right, it's straightforward enough, but I guess I was having an off day. It was a 25-30 foot fall, with a bounce off the slab, and a big head knock on the flake below. Wear a helmet! Always! I'm not sure I'd be writing this comment if I wasn't wearing it.

By Naz
Dec 27, 2011

I climbed this in fall of 2009, when I went back Dec 25th, noticed a couple of rock scars, particularly by the 2nd bolt (lets just say it's not a slab move anymore), and one further up by the 4th bolt (turned into a move over a bulge). Curious to know if anyone knew the history of the two scars, because I definitely don't remember them from 2009.

By BMat
Oct 6, 2012

Definitely a hold broken off between the 2nd and 3rd bolt making a new crux that felt 5.10+ to me.