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 ADVANCED
Kaymoor Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Date with Disappointment S 
Fool Effect S 
Newd Scientist T 
Pudd's Purty Dress S 
Que's Jook Joint S 
Rat's Alley T 
Slab-O-Meat S 
Totally-Clipse S 
Upheaval, The S 
Walking in Your Footsteps T 
Wimpy, Wimpy, Wimpy T 
With a Little Help from My Friends S 

The Upheaval 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Glenn Thomas,Bob Rentka and Rick Thompson
Page Views: 1,612
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 17, 2007

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BP leading up Upheaval 9-2010.

Description 

Sweet slab.

Belay from the ledge or you will not be able to lower the leader to the ground with anything shorter than a 60m rope.

Originally a 5.10c R trad line, it was bolted because it saw only one repeat ascent in 5 years. Since its bolting it has become very popular.

Fun and spicy moves up the slab. Lots of on-your-feet climbing makes this one a classic in my book.

Location 

Right most route on the slabs, starts off higher ledge.

Protection 

8 bolts to anchors.


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By jsustrich
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Lots of fun! There's a crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts that I agree with BMat on - felt a bit harder than 5.9 but not too bad. It's going to be hard if you don't look enough beforehand, or if you're a bit shorter. For me, if I remember correctly, it was a double undercling type move with a really high foot with a long reach to a crimp at about 1 o'clock.

If you can get that, you can finish the rest. There's another little crux after the second to last bolt, I couldn't use the mono pockets/pinch so I just tall person'd it and did a pullup off two slopers above.

Lots of fun. My first outdoor lead. Highly recommended in the grade.
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