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BETA PHOTO: Climber on Apple Strudel. The first pitch of Untou...
The Untouchables is a fun, little, sport climbing diversion in the Apple Strudel area. It's characterized by solid rock, good holds, and bouldery moves.
Begin a few feet right of AS, placing a finger-sized piece to protect a few moves up to the first bolt. Traverse right, then punch it through the next two bolts (crux) on surprisingly positive crimps and sidepulls. Resist the temptation to climb right into Ignition, but rather finish the crux up and left on progressively better holds. One more bolt gets you to the 3 bolt anchor shared with Apple Strudel.
A second pitch has been recently bolted, and goes up and right from the anchor, over a roof, and then up the crimpy face above. The crux (11b) is probably establishing on the face after a few juggy roof moves.
I was a bit confused on the second pitch. After clipping a few normally spaced bolts on the face above the roof, I climbed a ways above the last bolt, aiming for what looked like a crack system. A tricky and lichen-ous move guarded the crack, though, so I opted to downclimb, traverse well to the left, and then traverse back on easier ground. I'm not sure if this is the path that the FAs intended, or if they went straight up to the crack, with potential for a big (but probably clean) fall. Follow your nose.
To descend from the second pitch, walk to the climber's left to the bolted West Chimney raps.
This is just right of Apple Strudel.
Follow the Redgarden trail up the West face, towards The Yellow Spur area. This route is on a clean, brown plaque of rock between the YS and the Dirty Deed Chimney.
A finger-size cam at the start, then QDs. Bring a light rack for the 2nd pitch.
|Comments on The Untouchables
|By Scott Bennett|
May 13, 2012
If you're interested in climbing the fun 5.11 second pitch but don't want to tackle the 12c first pitch, you can reach it in two ways:
-Climb Apple Strudel (12a) to the shared, three-bolt anchor.
-Climb any route up to the "Red Ledge" (the best would probably be Parting Shot, 11b), and then rappel off a large tree (with rap slings) to the three-bolt anchor from which the second pitch begins.
Take care on this rap: the wall is steep, and the anchor is to rappeler's right. If you don't keep your swing going, you could easily become stuck in space and gain some unwanted prusiking practice.
|By Mark Tarrant|
May 15, 2012
Scott -- Pitch 2 was originally top-roped in 1988 but never bolted. Steve Levin had submitted a bolting application in 2009 and asked that I bolt it after he sustained an injury. His application called for 4 additional bolts, and he showed me a photo with a rough idea of where he wanted them. I got them in but had the same confusion as you about whether to climb straight up or not. I ended up moving left as well and still thought it was pretty insecure and runout. Even though there's a marginal piece or two, I think it would still be nice to have another bolt -- but I've become less bold in my old age!
Thanks for the write-up.