Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
The Untouchables is a fun, little, sport climbing diversion in the Apple Strudel area. It's characterized by solid rock, good holds, and bouldery moves.
Begin a few feet right of AS, placing a finger-sized piece to protect a few moves up to the first bolt. Traverse right, then punch it through the next two bolts (crux) on surprisingly positive crimps and sidepulls. Resist the temptation to climb right into Ignition, but rather finish the crux up and left on progressively better holds. One more bolt gets you to the 3 bolt anchor shared with Apple Strudel.
A second pitch has been recently bolted, and goes up and right from the anchor, over a roof, and then up the crimpy face above. The crux (11b) is probably establishing on the face after a few juggy roof moves.
I was a bit confused on the second pitch. After clipping a few normally spaced bolts on the face above the roof, I climbed a ways above the last bolt, aiming for what looked like a crack system. A tricky and lichen-ous move guarded the crack, though, so I opted to downclimb, traverse well to the left, and then traverse back on easier ground. I'm not sure if this is the path that the FAs intended, or if they went straight up to the crack, with potential for a big (but probably clean) fall. Follow your nose.
To descend from the second pitch, walk to the climber's left to the bolted West Chimney raps.
Scott -- Pitch 2 was originally top-roped in 1988 but never bolted. Steve Levin had submitted a bolting application in 2009 and asked that I bolt it after he sustained an injury. His application called for 4 additional bolts, and he showed me a photo with a rough idea of where he wanted them. I got them in but had the same confusion as you about whether to climb straight up or not. I ended up moving left as well and still thought it was pretty insecure and runout. Even though there's a marginal piece or two, I think it would still be nice to have another bolt -- but I've become less bold in my old age! Thanks for the write-up.
By Adam Sanders From: Louisville, CO Dec 25, 2013 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-E6 6b
This thing seldom gets done, but it's really pretty rad. At first attempt, it seems like a route that's just really hard but not actually that fun, BUT, if you spend a little more time on it and figure out the trick beta, it's really fun and extremely unique. There is definite shoulder-tweak potential, so make sure you delve into it with control, and use good posture. I won't spray the trick beta here, but PM me if you like. I gave it four stars for the mostly great rock, the beautiful wall, and typical Eldo crypticness that has you super frustrated then absolutely loving it. A small to medium nut or cam before the last bolt would be wise. It's easy climbing, but it gets really runout pretty quickly. Go do this thing!