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Cadillac Crag
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Auburn Court T 
Auburn Lane T 
Black Face S 
Brand New Cadillac S 
Deviant T 
Easy Street T 
Emission Control T 
Escalade T 
Ghetto Cruiser T 
Gonzo T 
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 
Highway of Diamonds T 
Highway Of Ra T 
Ichiban Arete T 
Land of Ra T,S 
Let it Vee T 
Midnight Trundler T,TR 
Moonlight Drive T 
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 
Stargate T 
Trail of Tears S 
Twistoflex T 
Untitled, The S 
V3 T 
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 

The Untitled 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Joyce & Richard Rossiter, J. Roberts & B. Ruckman, 1988
Fixed Hardware: 5 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,036
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 31, 2001

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Description 

The North face and Arete of Fin I sport a few nice lines- all three have cool moves on solid rock.

There is a sizable tree in the corner between fins one and two. Climb 5.0 up to that and sling it with a long sling or cordalette to set up a belay. Climb up and right to a bolt (shared with Ichiban Arete) and then veer left to an independent line of bolts. Near the top, the line moves out right to hit the arete. The real crux comes up high, and is fighting off pump, as none of the individual moves are terribly hard. The moves most likely to spill the leader involve 2-finger 1/4 pad crimpers and foot-smears.

It seems to me that all of the bolted lines at Cadilac Crag are a little soft, with this line being no exception. Perhaps it should be graded 5.11c? I don't do a lot of 5.12 sport climbing, so forgive any exaggerations.


Protection 

A set of quickdraws and one long sling.



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By Richard Rossiter
Jul 18, 2002

I have never published the story behind this route, because it is not a very pretty one. But the [previously posted] misinformation presented here compels some explanation. During the summer of 1988, I had set anchor bolts at the top of the northwest face of the First Fin, Cadillac Crag. Joyce (my wife of the time), Karen Kuddes and myself toproped the face and determined the ideal line. I marked in chalk where I thought the bolts should be placed and we rapped off, planning to return the nest day and set the bolts. When we returned we found Jack Roberts and Bret Ruckman toproping the face from our anchors with the intent of bolting the route. I agreed to include them in the project and placed the bolts with my Bosch, as I had planned. We all climbed the route. I later found out that a friend of ours, Elaine Chandler, had come by earlier that day and told Roberts and Ruckman that we were already working on the route and planned to return.

Regard this as you will. Personally I feel that my including Roberts and Ruckman in the first ascent was an act of good will. I named this route The Untitled because I never felt comfortable with the circumstances of the first ascent. The correct name of this route is The Untitled and the FA should read: Joyce and Richard Rossiter, Jack Roberts and Bret Ruckman

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 18, 2002

Sorry for the misinformation Richard. The story I heard (which you state is incorrect) is that Jack and Bret were the first to free climb (i.e. redpoint) this line, and had named it Fuzzy Dice.

"Fuzzy Dice" is a clever and fitting name for a route on this crag. However, the name "The Untitled" should probably be reinstated now that you have clarified the route's history.

By Richard Rossiter
Apr 21, 2003

To Steve. Now that this whole story has been told, I just want to say that I am easy on it. Fuzzy Dice is a clever name and I don't really mind at this point if people call it that. This is an excellent and challenging route on very good rock. I would like to return to this face with a drill and make a few improvements: it needs a first bolt behind the tree and a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the face. The current anchor is up on the summit and makes a poor rap or lower-off. A first bolt behind the tree would also serve the route Ichi Ban Arete. I, of course, heard about your stroke on Spearhead. I hope you are doing better now and I expect you are! Best wishes Steve and thanks for your many contributions to the sport. Kindest Regards, Richard Rossiter.

By jack roberts
Oct 20, 2007

Funny that I have never checked out this thread before, but here is Bret's and my version of what occurred that day. Bret contacted me the previous day about coming up to Cadillac Crag to climb what has now been called either Fuzzy Dice or Untitled. I agreed. We wanted to try and drill the route on the lead, ground up. As far as Bret (or I) knew, no one else had ever been on this route before although we knew that Richard had been checking out various lines in the area. To the best of our knowledge, this was not one of them. We never saw any chalk marks on our proposed line.
We got to the foot of the climb, Bret allowed me the first attempt at leading and drilling. I had gotten the first bolt in and was above it contemplating the next when Joyce came rappelling from up above. Bret and I were naturally confused and a bit upset, because we figured that their intent was to rap bolt and we wanted first chance at a trad lead.

Bret and I had a quick discussion with Joyce and it was obvious she and Richard were intent on drilling from above. Bret and I didn't think we could finish the route that day and might have to return again the next. Everyone agreed to a truce. The route would get drilled from rappel if Richard and Joyce gave Bret and I the first chance at the redpoint. Richard drilled the bolts, I did the first redpoint. When I got to the top, Richard and Joyce were no where to be seen. Bret followed the lead and he and I went home.

We never top roped the route nor did we ever see an Elaine Chandler.

I think what probably happened was that Richard had placed anchors above several routes on that cliff and had previously TR'ed them with intentions to go back and establish the bolts. He was really ambitious back them and sometimes didn't always communicate his intentions to others. Bret simply saw a great line he wanted to climb. At the time, Bret and I were holdouts (of a sort) of trad climbing. We really wanted to see if we could drill this rock on the lead. Hence, our stubbornness at not giving in to Richard's claim that it was his route. I was pretty adamant that I was NOT going to give in. Richard was surprised and ticked-off.

That was a long time ago, and everyone has since changed. We're all friends now, and this story is just part of the interesting history of Eldorado climbing. The name "Fuzzy Dice" was Bret's idea and a good name. I think that Richard and Joyce's name should remain on the FA.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 2, 2008

Felt loads easier than Bachar Yer Aryan, which is somewhat similar in style.