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Eagle Pinnacle
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Untickable, The 

The Untickable 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darrell Hensel and Jonny Woodward, 1986
Page Views: 1,634
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008
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Darrell Hensel going for the tick on the Untickabl...

Description 

Thin steep edging on good rock characterizes this route. Originally done with 5 bolts, the first ascent party later rearranged the first bolts to eliminate two potential ground falls. There are now 6 bolts on the route.

Scramble 40' up to the base of the route. From standing on the flake, pull onto the wall and climb past 4 bolts (11d) to the crux 5th bolt (12a). Slightly runout moves gain the base of a right angling ramp. Easy moves (5.8) up the ramp take one to the last (6th) bolt. One may belay at the two bolt anchor on the Sloppy Seconds ledge, or continue on the easy (5.7) crack to the base of Eagle Pinnacle. A single rope reaches from the double bolt anchor.


Location 

Far left side of the lower Eagle Pinnacle wall. Just left of Sloppy Seconds.


Protection 

Bolts, small gear to 2" if going all the way to Eagle Pinnacle.



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