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High Peaks
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Abuela Cochinita  S 
Andy's Sunset Punctuation Pinnacle S 
Anvil, The T 
Babies On the Ceiling S 
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Clean Sweep S 
Condor Condiment T 
Cone Regular Route, The S 
Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route T 
Egg Shell T 
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Freedom Dome, Regular Route T 
Hand Me Down T 
Little Javelina T 
Long's Folly: Regular Route S 
Lost Fortune S 
Lump, The S 
Operation Pinnacles Freedom S 
Photographer's Delight S 
Piglet Pinnacle Southeast Face S 
Scandal T 
sponge left side S 
swept away S 
Tuff Dome Regular Route  T,S 
Unmentionable, The T 
What I've Been Missing Out On T 

The Unmentionable 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: dry
Page Views: 1,242
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Nov 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Unmentionable.

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  • Description 

    The climbing route faces the trail, and, starts after a short scramble to a small rock saddle (old star-dryvin' belay bolt at saddle).

    Scramble up easy ridge to steeper rock at a broken horizontal seam. Clip bolt above the break, send that rig to the summit.

    Great position, a free standing pinnacle and some might find inspiration for something after staring longingly at the formation (a cold shower?).

    Classic Pinnacles summit. Well worth the scenic hike.

    Historical note: the 1966 Roper guide rated this route 5.3.

    Location 

    From the High Peaks Trail starting on the East Side, goes past the Anvil about 200 meters and look to the left: it looks like, uhh: Unmentionable!

    Rappel from the summit.

    Protection 

    One bolt protects the short crux and route. Two bolt anchor on summit for the rappel back to the ground.


    Photos of The Unmentionable Slideshow Add Photo
    Geez, that's so...Unmentionable!
    Geez, that's so...Unmentionable!
    Mathew G takes off!
    Mathew G takes off!
    At the only bolt, just below the crux of the Unmen...
    BETA PHOTO: At the only bolt, just below the crux of the Unmen...
    The Unmentionable from near the trail.  Note climb...
    BETA PHOTO: The Unmentionable from near the trail. Note climb...
    Summit of the Unmentionable.
    Summit of the Unmentionable.
    El Greco on top of the Unmentionable!
    El Greco on top of the Unmentionable!
    Photo of a climber on top.
    Photo of a climber on top.
    On top ...
    On top ...

    Comments on The Unmentionable Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By ElGreco
    Mar 14, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

    Truly unmentionable... Known by the rangers as C*ck Rock. Follow the gently sloping ridge (easy but exposed, especially to the right - no fall zone) to where the rock steepens. Clip a bolt, pull a few short crux moves (5.7) and you're on top. Bolt anchor. A short route, but the exposure, view and photo opportunities on this pinnacle make this a classic!
    By Jason Ogasian
    Jul 16, 2013

    This is a great place to practice a "Pinnacles Rappel". There is a good groove at the top that will keep your rope from slipping while you and your partner rap off the sides.