Working up to the crux. October 2010.
So you find yourself at The Motherlode
only to discover it's crazy crowded and quite the scene. It's fun to watch the scene unfold for a while but you prefer climbing away from crowds, dogs running all around and photographers rapping in from above.
If this description fits you, you might be interested in The Unlode.
Sure, it's a bit of a bushwhack to find and only has three routes but you're already parked at The Motherlode
and heck, your friends may still be up at the 'Lode whipping all over some 12s and 13s so you've got time to kill.
A short 6 minute hike will get you to some fun, steep routes where you're almost guaranteed to not run into anyone else.
The area gets afternoon shade.
From the parking at The Motherlode
, head back up the hill you drove down to get to the parking area. Walk up the road for a couple minutes and keep a sharp eye out for a very overgrown old road on the left. If you end up questioning yourself, "is this really an old road?", you've found it. Bushwack along this road for less than a minute to where it appears to peter out. Keep going. (You did remember to wear pants, right?) Traverse along the now very faint old road to cross a bit of a drainage. Look for a cairn shortly thereafter and head uphill for a minute or so. Keep looking to your right and you'll see the wall. Beat a path straight uphill to the wall and you'll be at the base of the two 5.11 routes.
Total approach time from the parking at The Motherlode
is approximately 7 minutes.
There is quite a bit more potential for routes in this area if you're feeling saucy. Some lines will require some vine clearing but would clean up nicely I believe.
Do note, however, that I'm not sure about land ownership here. The wall is pretty much directly below the road you drive in on.
Climbing Season For the Red River Gorge area.
Weather station 0.8 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Unlode
Unworthy 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c KY
: Red River Gorge
: The Unlode
Despite the name, this is a fun line.Boulder up the first section to a huge horn and a laydown rest in a horizontal just below a first bolt. Bust up the steepening and featured rock past three more bolts to the two bolt anchor. Many of the holds are fun but not long for this world. Use caution as they are likely to break with more traffic. It won't be a problem though...there are many more holds to keep the route at 11a. ...[more] Browse More Classics in KY