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DescriptionSo you find yourself at The Motherlode only to discover it's crazy crowded and quite the scene. It's fun to watch the scene unfold for a while but you prefer climbing away from crowds, dogs running all around and photographers rapping in from above. Getting ThereFrom the parking at The Motherlode, head back up the hill you drove down to get to the parking area. Walk up the road for a couple minutes and keep a sharp eye out for a very overgrown old road on the left. If you end up questioning yourself, "is this really an old road?", you've found it. Bushwack along this road for less than a minute to where it appears to peter out. Keep going. (You did remember to wear pants, right?) Traverse along the now very faint old road to cross a bit of a drainage. Look for a cairn shortly thereafter and head uphill for a minute or so. Keep looking to your right and you'll see the wall. Beat a path straight uphill to the wall and you'll be at the base of the two 5.11 routes. PotentialThere is quite a bit more potential for routes in this area if you're feeling saucy. Some lines will require some vine clearing but would clean up nicely I believe. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Unlode:
Unbridled 5.10c Sport, 50 feet
Unworthy 5.11a Sport, 43 feet
Undesirable 5.11c Sport, 45 feet
Featured Route For The Unlode
Unworthy 5.11a KY : Red River Gorge : The Unlode
Despite the name, this is a fun line.Boulder up the first section to a huge horn and a laydown rest in a horizontal just below a first bolt. Bust up the steepening and featured rock past three more bolts to the two bolt anchor. Many of the holds are fun but not long for this world. Use caution as they are likely to break with more traffic. It won't be a problem though...there are many more holds to keep the route at 11a. ...[more] Browse More Classics in KY |