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West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
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Gibbet, The 
Incarnation 
Long John Wall 
Next to Nearly 
Rictus 
Rock For Climbing Routes To 
Shock Of the New 
Strawberry Shortcut 
Sunshine Wall 
Toothsheaf Transfusion 
Unlead, The 
Unsaid, The 
Uranus 
Varieties Of Religious Experience 
Washington Irving 
White Rabbit 

The Unlead 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 548
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 3, 2002
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route is a "squeeze in" and may originally have been a more well known and often climbed route, but for the fact that there are obvious lines almost within reach on either side of this relatively blank face.

Follow the directions to a climb called "The Unsaid." Climb that rope and hang a TR above it (up and left are the rap anchors).

TR the face immediately left of The Unsaid, and without using the crack of The Unsaid or the crack to your left, toward Washington Irving. Though the Rossiter book calls it an arete, it is a face.

The crux is a less-than-vertical face with crimper fingers and smears for feet. It is a 3 move crux, with only one really hard move. The crux sequence begins with a shallow (1/4 pad) finger pocket in the left hand and had some long reaches.

A second, easier, crux is getting past the roof at the top, which is done near the right hand side, but quite so far as to be reaching into the crack system of The Unsaid.

I've tried as have others to move through the roof via the seam on the left side, but as of yet this seems to be undone.


Protection 

One could protect the unlead by moving to either crack system to either side (and back again) every so-often, but this breaks up the climbing. It is better as a Top Rope.

If you want to lead it, take gear, small to 2".



Comments on The Unlead Add Comment
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By Chris Archer
Aug 21, 2003

The final roof goes at the R facing corner seam. Surprisingly not that difficult, although rather tricky. 5.11+/12-. Beth Bennett and I toproped it last September (02).

By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c X

The right-facing seam just below the anchors seemed about 11b to me, and would make sense as the arete between the Unsaid and Washington Irving. The crux to me pulled around the arete from left to right into the corner slab and the anchors.