Type: Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ivan Ramirze / Gilly James
Page Views: 4,851 total · 25/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on May 26, 2008 · Updates
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description Suggest change

A shorter scarier version of "Shaken.” Below the western summit of the Bear’s Tooth is a left leaning gash that splits the two hangers at the far end of the Root Canal.

Climb a short rotten runout step onto the snow slope above. Run the rope up past the bottle neck until it gets steep; belay out of the way, then fire up into a steep rotten curtain. The final two pitches climb excellent grade 4 ice to an exposed arete on the subsummit of the Bear’s Tooth. This route has not been continued on to the summit yet.

Downclimb from the arete to the beginning of the chimney, then descend from great fixed anchors on double ropes.

Location Suggest change

South end of the Route Canal Glaicer

Protection Suggest change

5-6 ice screws, several stubbies, light rack including thin cams, nuts, hexes, and a few pitons.

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