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 ADVANCED
Moose's Tooth
Select Route:
Ham & Eggs 
Shaken not Stirred 
Unforgiven, The 

The Unforgiven 

WI5+ M5+ Steep Snow R

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus: WI5+ M5+ [details]
FA: Ivan Ramirze / Gilly James
Season: Winter / Spring
Page Views: 2,022
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on May 27, 2008

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"The Unforgiven"

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

A shorter R rated version of "Shaken" Below the western summit of the Bears Tooth is a left leaning gash that splits the two hangars at the far end of the Root Canal.

Climb a short rotten runout step onto the snow slope above. Run the rope up past the bottle neck till it gets steep; belay out of the way, and then fire up into a steep rotten curtain. The final two pitches climb excellent grade 4 ice to an exposed arete on the subsummit of the Bears Tooth. This route has not been continued on to the summit yet.

Downclimb from the arete to the beggining of the chimney then Decend from great fixed anchors on double ropes.

Location 

South end of the Route Canal Glaicer

Protection 

5-6 ice screws, several stubbies, light rack including thin cams, nuts, hexes, and a few pitons.


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