The Uneventful 

Most of this route is 5.5 or less as advertised. However, there is one move on the crux pitch that is pretty hard. I thought maybe as hard as 5.8, and my two partners agreed. The rest of the crux pitch is maybe 5.6 or 5.7. There was a bail biner on an old angle piton, on that pitch attesting to a party getting caught off guard.

If you are a 5.6 trad leader you can avoid this pitch by going left and avoiding the "chimney" which seemed more of a left facing dihedral to me. The protection is actually excellent on this pitch, so if you're worried about pulling the moves, you can sew it up.

Did this route(?) yesterday with my climbing buddy Tom who's been climbing for over 30 years. The route topo and description in the current guide book suck as well as various other comments on other websites pertaining to this route. After careful study we still got way off route with some 5.8+ overhangs and some serious liebacking to boot. All in all we had a challenging day but if your expecting 5.5+ you better be on route (wherever that may be) or else you're in for an adventure which ain't all bad!

As advertised in the topo, the vertical section encountered after you pass the J-shaped tree (pitch 5 for us) is indeed the crux. It wouldn't hurt to be very confident in your crack and chimney technique before attempting to lead this pitch.

It may have been because we had some rain that slicked up the crack and the face, and it may have been that the near-vertical dihedral presented me with a type of climbing I'm not familiar with, but I found that section to be more difficult than the crux sections on both Fingertrip and El Whampo.

I am starting to think that Randy got parts of Lip Up Fatty confused with The Uneventful. The 5.8 pitch corner above the J-Tree may be part of the former route.

did this route yesterday with another group. got way off route. on the 3rd pitch we by passed a small roof and went right around the left facing dihedral (ended up being harder than thought as well) to get to the tree just below the 'j' tree. we then traversed left and finished on The North Buttress in the dark. the falcon guide for this area blows.

It was a cruise until the crux pitch for the most part. It kicked my butt but I held on for dear life and pulled through....I was in denial for awhile that a line with 3 roofs could be 5.5. It was definitely harder than 5.5, but the roofs werent the hardest part, to me it was about 15 up the start of that damned flaring crack, left facing corner, offwidth thing.

Brian said: I am starting to think that Randy got parts of Lip Up Fatty confused with The Uneventful. The 5.8 pitch corner above the J-Tree may be part of the former route.

Likely correct assessment Brian. The Uneventful ends up in the same corner but heads right at a very inobvious spot. Where exactly? Good question.

All of my guides say that North Buttress and Uneventful cross at the large ledge and Uneventful finishes to the left and not up thru thru the J Tree but that is the finish to North Buttress. Are the guides wrong?

This was my first multipitch route. I did it with a guy named Jerry in 1987. It was the most fun I could imagine having. I was hooked on multipitch after that one. Classic.

Meh, this was pretty straight forward, follow the left side of the gully aiming for the big trees, the gully dissipates, look up and see the left facing dihedral, take it to the big ledge below the bent tree. Avoid the start of the bent tree pitch by going slightly right directly above the tree then back into the dihedral, it's 5.5.
The gully is a fukn minefiled of death blocks, tread carefully, only the bent tree pitch is any fun anyway.