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For Madmen Only TR 
Hollywood T,TR 
Josh's Hump T 
Lester the Molester T,TR 
Library, The T,TR 
Lower Undercling, The T,TR 
Main Street (right) T 
Notch, The T,TR 
Snowflake T 
Sunday Morning T 
Undercling, The T,TR 
Witches Brew T 

The Undercling 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 954
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Jun 15, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Tanya on the final headwall of Sunday Morning.

Description 

The 5.7 grade applies only to the crux(es) which are the undercling move, and at the top, following the vertical crack in the black face. You can easily maneuver around these cruxes to arrive at the same place. An easy top-rope version would probably go 5.5 due to the roof (i.e. Sunday Morning).

Location 

15 feet to the right of the Library dihedral is a smooth orange and black slab broken by a left-to-right trending crack. This is the Sunday Morning Crack. Follow the crack up to the roof/overhand. Pull past the roof on the left. Above the roof, look for an obvious flake/undercling, and traverse left to the arete using this undercling. Follow the arete up and trend right on the next two horizontal ledges. Finish the climb with bouldery moves in the vertical crack on the black face on the center of the south-facing wall.

Protection 

This is probably the best lead at Chickies. The pro is solid, and the falls are clean at all the difficult spots.


Photos of The Undercling Slideshow Add Photo
This is the entire route Sunday Morning including the undercling (left) traverse.
BETA PHOTO: This is the entire route Sunday Morning including ...
Sunday Morning Crack is below the climber. When he passes the roof, he will use the undercling to step left to the arete, then climb to the headwall, and finish in the vertical black crack near the top of the south face.
BETA PHOTO: Sunday Morning Crack is below the climber. When he...
The undercling move
The undercling move

Comments on The Undercling Add Comment
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By Larry S
Jun 30, 2010

This actually describes a route called "The Undercling". Sunday Morning (5.4) continues past the overhang over easy ground to a notch and up to the top. The moves past that little roof are a bit of a sandbag at 5.4 and I don't feel the pro at the roof is great (behind thin flakes), but it's a fun climb. Other routes share this start as well, Train Wreck (5.7) goes up the center of the face after the roof, while Lower Undercling goes out to the arete via the small flake below the roof.
By kenr
May 16, 2012

The obvious easier leadable line is not more than 5.4, as Larry S says, and I believe that's the line called "Sunday Morning".