The Unchaste 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Dave Horn and Jeff Scheuerell |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 20, 2010 |
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Mucci Man sending the Unchaste
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route starts with well protected face climbing that will keep you on your toes. The crux comes mid way on the first pitch with a second crux above a diorite band. The second pitch is easier but still challenging with mostly face climbing and a bit of crack near the pitches end. The last pitch is very easy but fun crack climbing.
Location This route starts on the right arete of Parkline Pinnacle, right of The Chase.
Protection P1- 9or10 bolts plus a .75 Camalot to a bolted belay
P2- 4 bolts, a fixed pin, and a small rack to a .75 Camalot(offset stoppers are nice to have)
P3- small rack to a .75 Camalot
Mucci Man on the lead. Whoop!
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Dan sending
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By mucci
From: sf ca
Mar 11, 2010
rating: 5.10b
| Just did the 1st Pitch, perfect edging and friction. Bolted where you need it, some gear toward the top while moving through the featured bulge.
Simply awesome. |
By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 11, 2010
| Great route....I'd stay off the 3rd pitch though as the quality degrades significantly and I found no anchor. |
By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 21, 2010
| The last pitch is easy, 5.6 up obvious cracks. Most folks skip the last, so little traffic means the plants grow back in the crack. When the cracks end a little face climbing leads to a big ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Not sure how it was missed. Using the anchors on this route is the most comfortable way of getting off Stone Quest as well. |
By Bonesaw
From: CA
Oct 8, 2010
rating: 5.10b
| Climbed first 2 pitches... perfect slab route. Nice work Jeff. |
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.10b
| climbed p1 and 2. Probably best route I climbed on Parkline so far.
80m rope perfectly fit for both pitches to rap |
By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012
| FA: Dave Horn, Jeff Scheuerell, 1995? |
By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 7, 2012
| I am making a few changes to this route. I moved the first pitch anchor down, now It can be done eaisily with one 70m rope. A 60 can work with a bit of easy downclimbing(tie a knot in the ends of your rope though).If you climb past the first anchor you will need 2 ropes. I may changing this. |
By Art Cormier
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| Top roped the first pitch durring light rain. not enough rain to effect friction but i was happy to be on toprope particularly at the crux. Feet pasted on slab and small edges for fingers i was lurred to the endge of the arette for better hands but returned back left for better feet. |
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| I have one quick comment now that Jeff added a second anchor on the first pitch. Stopping at the first anchor is great if you only intend on climbing the first pitch and you want to lower/rap with a single 70 m rope. However, if you are going to continue upwards to the upper pitches, then climb to the second anchor on pitch one (it is only a few more bolts up). The reason I say this is that there is some solid 5.10 friction climbing immediately above the first anchor where if you fell (a real possibility), you would slam into your belayer. By climbing up to the second set of anchors, you alleviate this problem altogether and as an added bonus, the upper belay stance is much nicer.
I was glad that I brought HB offsets for the second pitch; this made some of the nut placements super bomber.
Great route by the way; thanks to Jeff and Josh for putting this one up. |
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