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 ADVANCED
The Ultimates/Mexican Pocket
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Brown Nosing 
Pumphouse Primer 
Teddy Bear's Picnic 
Twist of Fate 
Ultimate Dihedral 
Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The 
Ultimate Finger Crack 
Ultimate Frisbee 
Ultimate OW 
Ultimator, The 
White Wedding 
Young Guns 

The Ultimate Dirty Sanchez 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jon Koehn and Will Cobb
New Route: Yes
Season: Summertime
Page Views: 933
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Aug 16, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The Ultimate Dirty Sanchez

Description 

Approach as per the Ultimate Finger Crack and Twist of Fate. UDS is located in the corridor to the right of UFC.

Pitch 1 - Climb a grey slab past one bolt to a stance below the "beak" roof. Load up the beak with blue and yellow Metolius or green and yellow Aliens. Use long runners on this gear. Layback around the roof and climb across "the beach" ledge to a tight corner. (Pulling the roof is no harder than 5.10, but the commitment level is high hence the 5.11- rating.) Climb the tight hands corner (5.10, harder than it looks...) to a two bolt belay atop a pillar.

Pitch 2 - Launch up the sweet, right curving, splitter thin hands/hands crack. (5.10) After about 50' pull onto a small ledge and make an awkward 5.9 move around a small bulge. Continue up the widening crack to a two bolt rap anchor in a small alcove.

One double rope rap from the alcove anchor will land you back at your packs.


Protection 

1 set stoppers
2 x Blue Metolius (Green Alien)
2 x Yellow Metolius (Yellow Alien)
2 x .5 Camalot (Old Sizes)
2 x .75 Camalot (Old Sizes)
2 x 1 Camalot (Old Sizes)
2 x 1 Camalot (Old Sizes)
1 x 3 Camalot (Old Sizes)
1 x 3.5 Camalot (Old Sizes)
1 x 4 Camalot (Old Sizes)



Photos of The Ultimate Dirty Sanchez Slideshow Add Photo
Jon Koehn loading up before pulling over the "beak".
Jon Koehn loading up before pulling over the "beak...
Looking up at the second pitch splitter crack.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the second pitch splitter crack.
Comments on The Ultimate Dirty Sanchez Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jonathan Koehn
Aug 23, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

One omission Willy! You forgot to tell everyone about the "stellar" third 10+X pitch.

By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 23, 2006

Jon is refering to the wild, loose, dirty, rotten, and dangerous third pitch. It has infact only been climbed once and is certainly not recommended. However if this sounds fun...

Head up the wide crack out of the alcove. From here head up following the path of least resistance to the canyon's rim. This pitch is at least 5.10+ with little to no pro anywhere. (5.10+ X)

There isn't anything like this pitch anywhere, especially not in Boulder.