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 ADVANCED
Mt. Tyndall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
North Rib T 
Tyndall Effect, The T 

The Tyndall Effect 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Daniel Roitman, Gus Benner and Sergio Aragon
Page Views: 1,524
Submitted By: Ryan Bracci on Jun 19, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Route highlighted in red.

Description 

Mt. Tyndall lies to the west of Mt. Williamson right off of Shepherd's Pass. It was first climbed on July 6, 1864 by Clarence King and Richard Cotter.

If one views Tyndall from the northeast there is a clear buttress separating the East and North-East face. The Tyndall Effect is just to the right of the Northeast Arete or buttress. Just to the right of that is a class 4 route called the East Face as described in Secor's High Sierra book. And further right of that is the North Rib route (class 3).

The Tyndall Effect climbs up the right-facing lieback cracks moving left on the first few pitches then heading up and right on pitch 4. After that one can continue to stay roped up or scramble up the remaining 4th class rock. Continue at a right angle until you merge with the North Rib route reaching the Northridge at the top of a notch. The climbing is easy from (5.0-5.6) and can be easier or harder depending on which was you go. The Secor book says 5.6 but I think the climbing was easier and the hardest we came across was 5.4. There are many climbing options and variations though to take on this route. Including going left and meeting up with the Northeast Arete. One can make it harder if they choose to do so. A direct variation might be nice, heading straight up to the ridge but I'm not sure how hard the climbing would be as you near the ridge itself.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack.


Photos of The Tyndall Effect Slideshow Add Photo
Route highlighted in red.
BETA PHOTO: Route highlighted in red.
Looking down from P4
Looking down from P4
The route starts at the shadow at just below photo center. You can scramble up to the shadow area and rope up there.
BETA PHOTO: The route starts at the shadow at just below photo...
Looking up P3 here. One can go right for easier climbing or continue heading left along the lieback system.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up P3 here. One can go right for easier cl...
This is a closer shot of the start of the route. The next ledge up is the start of the first pitch. You can clearly see the right facing lieback flakes and cracks here.
BETA PHOTO: This is a closer shot of the start of the route. T...
The rest of the way was an easy scramble. One could go straight up for a direct route variation if they like but I'm not sure how hard the climbing would get.
BETA PHOTO: The rest of the way was an easy scramble. One coul...
At the top of pitch 1 looking up to the left or start of pitch 2. You want to traverse a little at this point and continue following the to the left.
BETA PHOTO: At the top of pitch 1 looking up to the left or st...
One can stay right here in the dihedral or hop up and left for easier climbing.
BETA PHOTO: One can stay right here in the dihedral or hop up ...
Looking down from the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the first pitch.
Looking up P4.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up P4.
If you look straight up from P1 this is what you see. You can probably go up this as a variation but the actual route goes left and not up this.
BETA PHOTO: If you look straight up from P1 this is what you s...
A closer look up P4.
A closer look up P4.
Heading up P2 and looking back at the belay station at the top of P1. You can see you head left quite a bit.
BETA PHOTO: Heading up P2 and looking back at the belay statio...
Head towards the notch to join up with the North Rib. Then one scrambles south along the ridge to the summit.
BETA PHOTO: Head towards the notch to join up with the North R...

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