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The Two Sides of Purple 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Josh Gross and Lynn Sanson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 924
Submitted By: Lynn S on Oct 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Lynn Sanson on the first ascent.

Description 

A continuation of Pinhead, start on that route but about 8 feet below its anchor, bust right and up to an obvious OW pod guarding access to the right-facing corner above. This is the first of three OW sections you will encounter on your way to the anchor. You will want a #5 Camalot and bump it up this section with you.

Grunt up to the next section of wideness, #4 works here. As the crack disappears you will find a nice new bolt waiting for you to clip. Stem, smear and grovel up to the last short pod below the anchor. Have a #2 Camalot ready, plug it in and make a move or two to the anchor.

When I led this I used everything from a 00 C3 (purple) to the #5 Camalot (purple) hence the route name. It is still fresh, so be mindful of what you grab onto.

Protection 

Cams from tiny to #5 Camalot, save a #2 for the top. 1 bolt on the route and a three bolt anchor with chain and rapid links. Please do not pirate the links.


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By Monkey Den Climber
From: moab, utah
Oct 25, 2009

there are already anchors above it, if you look from across the road...... this is just a fake second pitch... in fact, 2 college kids 2 weeks before went up to the original second pitch anchors and cleaned it all out. nice paint job on the anchors, u got a little on the rock.... i guess that will wear off like chalk though........
By Josh Gross
Oct 26, 2009

Years ago Nathan Martin and I were the crazy kids who climbed to the rim. We toped out via the splitter above. The worst desert route of my life, vertical sand!
By Lynn S
Oct 26, 2009

@ 12at12 - Our intent was a continuation off pinheads that can be done safely, thus avoiding going up the choss above the anchor we put in. Josh and I thought it best to have something additional that is safely climbable rather than another route that people look at and move on down the road because of the choss above.

Do you want me to change the FA, will that make you feel better, I could care less? I was happy to put in the time, energy, etc. to make a nice long pitch of good climbing.

By Monkey Den Climber
From: moab, utah
Oct 26, 2009

thanx for the explanation lynn. i had no idea who placed the anchors up higher, just saw other people on them. my biggest concern was the paint all over the rocks at the anchor placement. none the less thanx for putting up a route that will be done all the time, and eliminating the choss factor.
By Lynn S
Oct 26, 2009

It is pretty good climbing and makes you use just about every technique out there. We had paper to cover when spraying but the wind took it for a ride at a most inopportune time. It needs some traffic to clean up, but will still be sandy after a rain, too much choss above, keeps feeding the sand down.
By swadeky
From: Moab, UT
Mar 10, 2014

Me thinks save a 3 for the top, maybe its gotten wider but my 2 i saved was pretty tipped out, probably woulda caught me