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The TV Station

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Warm Up Wall 

The TV Station  


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: claude. on Sep 12, 2011
Forecast:
Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri
Thunderstorm
78° | 45°
Partly Cloudy
66° | 44°
Clear
68° | 45°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
67° | 43°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
65° | 43°
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Nice hard line near the Warm Up Wall with some pre...

Description 

A small limestone bouldering area just north of Sandia Crest, consisting of perhaps the best quality limestone in the ABQ area. A great summer alternative to Big Block/The Temple/The Woodie due to it's shade and cool temps, not to mention it's not a dug out cave covered in glue and the problems actually top out. Keep in mind the area is small, although there is still some potential for new problems. Grade range is V1-V12 or enough to keep everyone busy for at least an afternoon. Definitely worth a visit.

Getting There 

Drive towards Sandia Crest, just before you reach the parking lot for the Crest, park on the left side in a pull-out (I believe it's same approach for Clandestine Wall) cross the road and continue up the obvious trail until it joins the Crest Trail. Continue for about 5 minutes or until you reach a fork just in front of a sign for North Crest Trail. Make a hard left and head directly down the steep hillside on the obvious trail. Continue for 50 yards or so until a small cliff band comes into view on the right. Continue down until you reach the base and continue walking along it's base. The rock quality drastically improves the further north you go. Eventually you will see a fixed rope hanging from one of the walls - this is the "down climb" (although I wouldn't use it as such, it's been there for years and most likely not in the best shape) Continue exploring a bit further to reach the best wall/problems

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The TV Station
A view of The V6 which uses the visible feature in the center of the photo

The V6 V6 7A  NM : Sandia Mountains : The TV Station
This the best moderate at the TV Station (probably the only one too) A tricky, technical start leads to a committing finish. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on The TV Station Add Comment
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By Eric Whitbeck
Sep 26, 2011
What makes the area sensitive? Who "needs to know?" about any crag? Please enlighten.
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Sep 26, 2011
This was an existing area for short top-ropes on ice climbs in the winter long before the "developer" of summertime bouldering got there.

This bouldering area is unique for its location, but I am not sure what might make it any more sensitive than other areas in the upper Sandias. As Eric said, enlighten.



By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Sep 27, 2011
Climbers have been getting hurt in all times past. Keeping this wall from being publicly identified won't matter one iota in that.

Determining when to post a crag or wall on a publicly available forum will always be at least a little contentious. Pretty hard to identify a moment when those currently working the area are sufficiently done in a collective sense.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Sep 27, 2011
David,

I can understand the concern about kids given that I have a handful. And at the same time, we can have that 16 year old with only quickdraws on a moderate 'bolted' route at Socorro that needs a gear placement to avoid decking potential at crux-ish moves. Or on a 5.7 trad pitch that goes unprotected on 5.5 slab for more than the last half of the pitch.

In short, I'd say this is an issue that cross-cuts all styles of climbing. Rather than sensoring the posting of such problems/routes/crags, these are examples of good information to include in a living guide like MP.com.

Bill
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Sep 27, 2011
imagine this senario: joe 16 year old, super rad v8 gym crusher hikes v6 at the gym. Therefore he sees v6 'moderate' at this area and rolls up with his girlfriend with their pad that works fine at bigblock and umound. He eventually sends the lower section of the v6, at starts sketching on the v4 moss and stick covered topout. He isn't used topping out in this style, so he tweaks out, falls, breaks his leg. Now they have to get up the steep, wooded hill and to their car.

The solutions are simple.

1. Paint a line at 12' that says "no climbing above this point."
2. Glue over all holds up to that line, thereby creating rad testpieces and eliminating moderates.
3. If these solutions fail, offer to loan out your big pads and give a spot.
By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Nov 14, 2011
So highballs should not be posted on this website? wtf? If you put an 'R' or an 'X' after the rating isn't that warning enough that yeah, this could be dangerous. That and of course actually looking at how high it is might be a clue.
By Paul Davidson
Nov 29, 2011
A line, William, seriously, a big bold line ?
No, it has to be a bunch of yellow hands.
Isn't that the accepted cutoff standard of the area ?

Seriously, if someone can't look at a high ball and have a clue about getting hurt and the ability to judge when to back down, then perhaps a bit of natural selection coming into play isn't a bad thing.

Considering some of the sports' epic crawls (Ogre anyone), I would hope you could get back to the parking lot without a major rescue effort from a sprain or even a moderate break.