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Elephant Knob
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Elephantiasis 
Tusk, The 

The Tusk 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Newman, E.C. Joe (1976)
Page Views: 391
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 26, 2006
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Description 

As of 2004, this was among the only climbs free of loose rock. It is also perhaps the best crack climb on the formation.

Start in a large recess below a gully on the south side of the dome. Traverses up and right and turn the corner of a blunt arete (5.6). Climb a finger & hand crack left of a pine tree (5.7). At a horizontal break, move left and climb a steep fist crack to a sloping ledge (5.7/5.8 and FUN). Belay takes small stoppers & TCUs. Rappel the gully to your starting point from slings around a chockstone. The gully itself can be downclimbed at awkward but easy class 5.

Adventurous climbers may wish to continue up one of three short but sweet fingertips cracks (5.10+). Rappel from slings.


Location 

Start in a large recess below a gully on the south/southwest side of the dome (immediately around the corner to the right of Elephantiasis). On the left hand side is a dihedral/chimney that is a fun alternate start to Elephantiasis (5.8). On the right-hand wall is the start of the Tusk.


Protection 

1/2" to 3.5"
Small nuts & TCUs for belay



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