Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Castle Rock - Southwest Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ball and Chain S 
Cryptology S 
Great Steps of Cheops, The T,TR 
Sphynx, The T 
Turret, The T 

The Turret 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,318
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Aug 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for Castle Rock (SW Face), Castle Rock...

Description 

One of the better 5.8's in the SB's! Great features throughout this route and plenty of pro along the way. A great warm-up to the harder moderates on the crag. 3-stars for sure!

Location 

This route starts on the left side of the south face of Castle Rock, on the western side (left) of an obvious detached block of rock (The Turret...duh!). Climb up to the obvious crack and follow it up and right to a set of anchors (wired shuts) on an overhanging block. Lower off (80')

Protection 

Pro to 4", bolted anchors


Photos of The Turret Slideshow Add Photo
Albert Ramirez belayed by Nathan Fitzhugh.
Albert Ramirez belayed by Nathan Fitzhugh.
The Turret, (5.8)   photo credits to Chris Miller
BETA PHOTO: The Turret, (5.8) photo credits to Chris Miller
Another shot of Christian on this steep and intimi...
Another shot of Christian on this steep and intimi...
Christian Sweetsheppard follows The Turret.
Christian Sweetsheppard follows The Turret.
John leading Ball and Chain. The Turret completed ...
John leading Ball and Chain. The Turret completed ...

Comments on The Turret Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A very good climb, steep and intimidating but with good pro and good rest opportunities. Highly recommended.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jul 10, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good route on very featured rock. Plenty of pro available just about anywhere.
By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 22, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Somewhat technical jamming and jug pulling for the first 20' are the crux after which it eases off considerably. Near the top the better finish is to head left and join Ball and Chain to topout.
By Adam Lawrence
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 29, 2012

First move is like whoa...then it's like oh ok...then you are like ahhhh...but then the last clip at the anchors is like whoa. Good route.
By Laura Lemire
Aug 18, 2015

This was a great 5-8 lead. The pro is all there. The transition at the start of the climb is a bit dicey. If you feel 5-8 is your limit, take your time and climb smart at the beginning because it is a pretty good drop from the first piece of pro and the crux is technical. The first 20 feet is indeed the crux, sustained. Compared to a Tahquitz 5-8, it was definitely harder. The anchors underneath the boulder make setting anchor awkward. I would recommend heading left and setting up on the anchor for Ball and Chain.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!