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The Turret

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5.10c/d Hands/Fist Crack, East side T 
5.8 Chimney - "Choss Garden" T 
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The Turret 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,113'
Location: 39.1516, -105.3007 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,201
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jeremy Hakes on May 14, 2008
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The Turret. Photo courtesy Doug Shaw.

Description 

This spire sits out in the open, the top pinnacle on a hill. It is rarely climbed, and with good reason - it is mank.

No shade to be had, except on the north side of the summit spire. This large rock sits in the midst of the 2002 Hayman fire.

I doubt you would see anyone all day in and/or on this peak/spire. You will be very isolated - road traffic is nonexistant. Phone coverage is spotty at best. If things go poorly on you, it would be best for someone to know where you are when you don't come home.

Typical S. Platte granite, except more rotten than usual.

Two routes known, possibly more, but likely not worth it. Some of the rock is of good quality, the rest is garbage.

We installed a new 2-bolt rap anchor on the north face on the side of the highest shoulder on 5.9.09. A twin 60m rope rappel will get you down safely.


Getting There 

From CO-67, head west on CR 51/511 (FR 360) as it turns to FR 206. Pick a spot to stop more or less SE or S, depending on where you park, and hike north and west to the rock. You will need either an ATV, dirt bike motorcyle, or a high clearance 4x4 with low range. These roads are not well maintained.

The routes are (by compass bearings) at 30N for the 5.8 and 60N for the 5.10.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Turret
Steve Sarns leading and George Bracksieck belaying pitch two, in 1981.  Note the Allen/Leibold "5.10 Hands/Fist Crack" to our left.

Another SPlatte Special 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1  CO : South Platte : The Turret
On Sept. 12, 1981, I led the first pitch up a left-facing, moderate dihedral, while wearing hiking boots. Steve Sarns clean-aided the second pitch, from a hanging belay, up a right-leaning, overhanging crack, which eventually turns the corner onto the vertical face. Most of the pics taken by Steve's girlfriend Sarah were uselessly blurry. I think this route could go free....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for The Turret
Photos of The Turret Slideshow Add Photo
The Turret on approach.
The Turret on approach.
The Turret.
The Turret.
New anchor installed.
BETA PHOTO: New anchor installed.
The Turret in winter.
The Turret in winter.
Turret from Sheep Rock.
Turret from Sheep Rock.
Comments on The Turret Add Comment
Show which comments
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 2, 2008

I climbed this thing in college. I remember shitty rock and a 5.9 chimney. We approached via the Turkey Rock road and then walked down the road before the Big Rock rd. to the river.

By slim
Administrator
Jun 5, 2008

Jeremy,

The '98 (blue/green) Hubbel guide shows 2 routes, 1 being a 5.8 chimney on the west side and the other being a 10c hand/fist crack on the east side.

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 5, 2008

I remember looking at that crack. It's overhanging as I recall. I was thinking it was on the south side. So maybe we'll meet in the middle and say it's on the southeast side!

By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
May 12, 2009

On 5.9.09, we installed a 2-bolt anchor on the extreme east face for rappelling safely. A double rope rappel with 60m ropes gets you down safely.