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Friction Slab
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The Turner Prize Tower 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1 [details]
FA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent 4th march 2002
Page Views: 950
Submitted By: USBRIT on Jan 2, 2008

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The Turner Prize Tower.

Description 

P1)Starts at a crack on the east side. Up this to the gap and belay .60'5.8 P2)Move out onto the south side and some bolts lead up a slab to the summit. 50'


Location 

This semi hidden tower (but visible from the road) is not on the Friction slab ,but this maybe the closest crag , The tower is on the other side of the road up a small canyon with a pull off on the left side of the road . The pull off at the head of the canyon is 1.8 miles passed Newspaper rock when driving into the creek. It takes only a few mins to walk to the tower from the road.


Protection 

A few cams,quick draws



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By Bill Grasse
From: Durango, CO.
Mar 16, 2008

Great tower to tic after a day at the creek. Super cruiser and fun. Lots of stoppers for hanger-less bolts.

By -mn
Jan 14, 2009

bolt ladders arn't dead in the 21st century....they just smell funny.....

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jun 29, 2009

You should see the bolt ladders in Rifle, and lots of smells....Here many climbers seem to practice aid climbing with sometimes bits of free in between bolts the only difference they do not use aiders.I also notice lots of aid climbing on the so called free crack climbing of Indian Creek. So aid climbing is still alive and well,more so among Sport climbers and the Sport/Trad crack climbing areas of Indian Creek.

By Bill Grasse
From: Durango, CO.
Apr 26, 2011

I like to call that "fr-aid" climbing... "free from the waist down." Not free, not aid but most likely afraid.