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 ADVANCED
The Capstan
Select Route:
Just Right 
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) 
South Crack 
Trough Direct SDS, The 
West Face [The Capstan] TR 

The Trough Direct SDS 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Xander Oxman
Page Views: 386
Submitted By: Cesar Valencia on Feb 19, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo: Trough Direct SDS.

Description 

This is a great problem that has some really fun powerful moves. It starts with a low sds right hand on a large cobble and your left hand on a small sidepull down really low or in a tiny mono. Your feet are smearing on some small pebble patches and never really feel solid.

Once you manage to pull off the ground, start by going up left hand to a poor sidepull pinch and make a strong move right to a good sharp edge. Get your feet up and cross into another sharp pinch. Finally go up left hand to an OK crimp, and make a fun lock off move up and right to the 'Trough'.

It's suggested that once you make your way into the hole (Trough) you should either jump off or make some sketchy moves out right and walk off on the boulder that is leaning up against the east face of the Capstan Rock. Another option is to top out direct and descend the north face to the road.

Location 

This is located on The Capstan Boulder directly to the right of Just Right.

Protection 

One pad should do the trick. If you are climbing alone, make sure to place your pads strategically, since you jump off the boulder once you reach the hole (Trough).


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By Cesar Valencia
Feb 19, 2013

Here is a short video of The Trough Direct with some alternative beta on getting off the boulder, lol.