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Upper Theology Crag
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Beggar's Banquet S 
Titanium Albatross S 
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Trouble With Normal, The S 
Unknown 5.10d S 
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Unsorted Routes:

The Trouble With Normal 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 967
Submitted By: andy patterson on Oct 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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so quality.

Description 

Stunning and intimidating climbing up a huge dihedral, then a wild bear-hug crux leading to the top. Awesome!


Location 

On the right side of Theology Crag.


Protection 

take seven draws and some material to set up an anchor (there are bolts for the anchor, but if you want to top-rope the route you need to extend the anchor point)



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Trouble With Normal follows the red x's
Trouble With Normal follows the red x's
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 1, 2008

I led this line today and found the crux as exciting as ever. In my opinion, this route touts one of the most memorable crux sequences in the area, with the possible exception of T-Crack. Please, go do this route. Tread softly (as possible) on the middle section. Some holds may not last forever.

Also, the anchors on this route are suspect. Some new bolts might be nice.

By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 25, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

one of the best sport climbs in santa barbara.

By Richard Shore
Jun 25, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The bearhug crux is unlike anything I've ever done. Crazy combination of compression strength and technique. If other routes like beggars banquet and crank start are 11c, this thing feels at least a grade or two harder. Whatever it is, wow!

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Mar 15, 2012

I said the same friggin' thing to Ruckman and you know what he told me. "if it were in Little Cottonwood it would be 11a." Well now I live in Little Cottonwood and no way is it 11a. 12a maybe. Anyway, it's a rad route. One of the best. Agreed.