The Triple Traverse
5.8- Easy Snow
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The triple traverse.
From left to right: Turret ...
The Triple Traverse is a moderate, day-long traverse of Mt. Warren, Doublet, and Dinwoody in the Gannett Cirque. Ascents of the Les Dames Anglaises Spires in between Warren and Doublet are possible as well. We climbed the west aspect of the center spire at about 5.7.
There are two particular cruxes; we encountered difficulties up to 5.8 on both Mt. Warren and Dinwoody. Had we looked for easier alternatives we probably would have found them.
Mt. Warren: Easy climbing on the shoulder of Mt. Warren leads to one of the first cruxes; 5.8- climbing around bulges. After surmounting the bulge we were on easy 2nd and 3rd class terrain to the summit of Warren. From the summit, a down climb is possible to avoid a rappel into the notch.
Les Dames Anglaises Spires: We climbed the center one at 5.7. At first we tried to traverse around to the east but got on 5.10 terrain which was too much for me. It looks like it will go up nice fingers, though. Instead, we climbed up the standard 5.6 route (really 5.7, at least) up a beautiful crack to the summit.
Doublet: incredibly 4th class-y and loose. Not sure how to describe it. The final pitch was probably easy 5th class. Use your best routefinding skills. We rappelled once off the backside to get to the notch in between Doublet and...
Dinwoody: once in the notch, climb out with one long pitch at about 5.8. It looks like there are multiple ways to go. Have fun. From the top of this pitch, 2nd/3rd class terrain leads to the summit.
Approach: The route begins from Elsie Col in between Mt. Warren and Turret Peak. You need to be glacier rigged. The approach from the moraine took about an hour, maybe a little more.
Descent: Down Dinwoody pass, across the glacier, and back to the moraine.
Retreat: There are multiple ways to retreat, although I'm sure none of them are completely straight forward. They probably all take some hi-level mental gymnastics to figure out safely.
Standard alpine-ish rack with extra webbing for rappels. We used two snow pickets. We did not use any ice screws, but they might have been handy if conditions were different. They might also be useful for abalakov's if rapping any of the icy couloirs as a retreat.
Hanging out on Mt. Warren