Somebody...please do this route and tell me if the route is intended to continue after the three mantle moves. The mantles were both challenging and fun. Three of us played on it today and we each did them entirely differently..... None of us were able to climb beyond the mantles. We ended up moving right onto the 5.5 route to get back up to clean the top rope.
Tonya:When I [originally] did this route I continued up the easy terrain and did the steep section of rock to the left of the chimney. I went back with a group of folks who could not figure it out and when I got up there there was some key holds missing. This does not [surprise] me given how a lot of the rock in the SSV just flakes off. I also know similar problems with the third mantel, but we were all able to pull it, although somewhat tougher. Last few times we would just finish up the chimney. [Start on] the right side, stem the chimney and finish on the left side of the chimney and exit out to the bolts.
I placed the 2 "Fixe" rappel bolts at the top a number of years back. But there were no bolts on the face back in 2001, so that is someone else's work. I only bolted the tops of the climbs on this rock that I regularly used with my scout troop.
I don't think it matters where or how you climb the last three bolts. The way it was planned was to clip bolt #4 and #5 on your left, then step across to the flake and up to the next flake to clip #6 on your right. A big stem across the chimney lets you clip #5, and then a committing move to the flake. I'll have to try it the way you mentioned. I don't know how hard it is the way I mentioned, but for us short folk I'd say at least a hard 10.
I'd love some feedback on doing it the way I mentioned above.
After mantles, top 3-4 bolts look VERY hard and improbable (relative to my ability, ie-undoable). Saw chalk but very blank-looking bulge leading to small ridges, I'm sure it can be done, but I'd like to see it! I ran out the finish up the easy chimney to the anchors.
By Nathan Welton From: Estes Park, CO Mar 10, 2012 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
March 10, 2012: The top anchors have been chopped, so you'll have to walk off if you go directly up. Otherwise, you can skip the final crux bulge and head right to the other routes nearby.
Awkwardly bolted top part. Will be hard for shorter climbers to reach.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Apr 7, 2012 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
The fall before clipping that 5th bolt would be pretty nasty if you were doing it from the right and stemming in.
Just got on this thing a few days ago, and it is definitely missing some key foot holds at the 4th bolt...and I can't really see doing the stem move as mentioned previously...any attempt straight up from the 4th to the 5th bolt will require a huge dead point by my guesstimation which would put it somewhere in the 12ish range...certainly harder than any move on the 11+ to the right.
By Justin Brunson From: Broomfield CO May 5, 2013 rating: 5.10+6b+21VII+20E3 5b
I agree with John, something is amiss on the upper section of this route. Also-- why was the anchor chopped? Seems very strange to me, but I don't know any SSV history.