|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 165'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, September 2006|
|Submitted By:||Richard Rossiter on Sep 16, 2006|
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 1, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
OK climb, but 1 or 1 1/2 stars rather than 3, when compared to other climbs at Sleeping Beauty. The start (Kama Sutra) is good, the moves right are fun but short, with a difficult gaston foot switch, then much moderate nondescript climbing that shares a short bit with Kama Sutra, then good hard 9 climbing on the upper part of Wings of Desire. I.e., about 6 traversing feet of good new climbing.
The description says you come "very near" to Kama Sutra up high, but I actually joined Kama Sutra for about 15' on the lead. On TR, I was able to avoid the KS crack, but only by inches. That seemed silly, grungy, and would be dangerous on the lead.
The bolt is somewhat useful, but not much--I didn't clip it. Since I was self-belaying, and rope drag was not an issue, I placed a #3 Camalot at the base of the wide crack on KS, stepped down and across. Soon as you get the good stem you get good gear. On a regular lead, you could do the same thing with a long sling on the left and back cleaning the first piece you place after the traverse. Or you could use double ropes.
As for difficulty, maybe 10a by Sleeping Beauty standards (Crack of Dawn is harder), but there are harder 9s in Eldo and Boulder Canyon. I had more difficulty with bolted upper Wings of Desire than with the trad bottom 2/3's. I'm revising downward my estimate of the difficulty of the Kama Sutra start. The main difficult is getting jams with the cams in the way. Otherwise, it's very straightforward.
For gear, I carried way too much in the 1" size as per the description. It's not really a finger crack. Singles from finger size up. Doubles in hand-sized (since you'll be leaving a couple at the initial roof). Brass if you plan to avoid the upper part of KS (silly). #3 Camalot if you plan on skipping the bolt (less silly). Plus a set of nuts, mostly big for the several great nut placements.