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The Travisty 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Harrison Dekker, 1991
Page Views: 523
Submitted By: Joseph DeGaetano on Mar 24, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Harrison Dekker on The Travisty (5.13c), New River...


Although this route doesn't look too stunning from the ground, what it lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in movement. A V3 boulder problem start to some easier climbing will bring you to the infamous "mono" crux move. Engineer a way to make this move without wrecking your tendons and continue fighting your way to the next clip. From here, you can bail off left to the easier top out known as "The Tradjedy" (note that this requires some gear), or you can do the full value route. Getting established on the slab is quite cruxy with a pump but with good beta a mere mortal can pull this off fairly quickly. 2 more bolts of long lockoffs will get you to the anchors.

This route has amazing movement and in my opinion is quite soft for the grade. It would be a Travisty if you didn't get on this route.


Brain sector at Beauty Mtn. Just left of Mikey William's testpiece "Picket Fence".


7 bolts with fixed draws and bolted anchor.

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