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The Brain
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The Travisty 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Harrison Dekker
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: Joseph DeGaetano on Mar 24, 2013

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Description 

Although this route doesn't look too stunning from the ground, what it lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in movement. A V3 boulder problem start to some easier climbing will bring you to the infamous "mono" crux move. Engineer a way to make this move without wrecking your tendons and continue fighting your way to the next clip. From here, you can bail off left to the easier top out known as "The Tradjedy" (note that this requires some gear), or you can do the full value route. Getting established on the slab is quite cruxy with a pump but with good beta a mere mortal can pull this off fairly quickly. 2 more bolts of long lockoffs will get you to the anchors.

This route has amazing movement and in my opinion is quite soft for the grade. It would be a Travisty if you didn't get on this route.


Location 

Brain sector at Beauty Mtn. Just left of Mikey William's testpiece "Picket Fence".


Protection 

Bolts with fixed draws as of 3/23/2013.



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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Apr 21, 2013

The name of this route stems from it's controversial history. A visiting climber drilled two pockets in the crux. Outraged locals artfully filled them in, then Harrison Dekker later did the first ascent au natural in October 1991. At the time it was one of the New's hardest. The spelling of the name is a pun on the name of the driller.