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The Trauma (5.6)
Climb up a large chunky flake system using face and chimmney moves to a stance just below a large right facing dihedral. Step out to the right and continue up to the anchor on easier ground.
Standard rack. Two bolt anchor.
My girlfriend Nicole Marcos TR'ing The Trauma. 5.6...
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008
Fun climb but you guys who learned on this thing are natural-born-hardmen! I felt The Trauma was awkward and a little hard to protect, therefore aptly named.
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 28, 2008
I once saw a guy climb up the right side of the pinnacle, place, then climb around the left. He quickly was stuck. What I saw next was amazing. Instead of cleaning his piece, he wedged himsef beteen the pinnacle and the wall and proceeded to take his harness off! Then he swung this around the pinnacle and put it back on - rope running smoothly.
Since he proceeded to get off route I reminded him that there was a bolt anchor to his right should he need it. I was just worried about his friends dying on his setup. Bad idea, I was told to shut up, he knew what he was doing.
Later both of us ended up at the same anchor somehow. Very awkward. That was the quickest rap I have set up to date.
I guess that day was pretty traumatizing for the both of us.
|By Raquel ROCKY Robles|
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 17, 2011
Followed. Lot's of bird POOP on the route on the upper section near the piton. Still a fun route.
|By Yair Horowitz|
Jan 9, 2012
Well this was an interesting time... I'm a pretty new 5.6 trad leader and I figured that for my first climb of the day at Mission Gorge I'd warm up on The Stairs, which Chris Hubbard's guide has at a 5.3. You may already see where this is going...
So I reach the awkward block on... The Stairs?... and I'm thinking to myself, "Holy F*** this is sandbagged." After pushing through the climb on lead I finally rap down and take another look at the guide and:
1. Okay, wow, that was "The Trauma." Damn.
2. "The toughest 5.6 lead you will ever do"
What a F'ing warmup! I'm happy, but I'll pay a bit more attention to the book next time!
(Separately, the anchors on The Trauma are set pretty far back from the face. Bring some extra cord to extend, or face some serious rope drag.)