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Unsorted Routes:

The Trauma 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Steve McKinney, Dan Molnar
Page Views: 1,835
Submitted By: Marc Kajut on Jan 29, 2006
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The Trauma (5.6)
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up a large chunky flake system using face and chimmney moves to a stance just below a large right facing dihedral. Step out to the right and continue up to the anchor on easier ground.


Protection 

Standard rack. Two bolt anchor.



Photos of The Trauma Slideshow Add Photo
My girlfriend Nicole Marcos TR'ing The Trauma. 5.6.
My girlfriend Nicole Marcos TR'ing The Trauma. 5.6...
Comments on The Trauma Add Comment
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008

Fun climb but you guys who learned on this thing are natural-born-hardmen! I felt The Trauma was awkward and a little hard to protect, therefore aptly named.

By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 28, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

I once saw a guy climb up the right side of the pinnacle, place, then climb around the left. He quickly was stuck. What I saw next was amazing. Instead of cleaning his piece, he wedged himsef beteen the pinnacle and the wall and proceeded to take his harness off! Then he swung this around the pinnacle and put it back on - rope running smoothly.

Since he proceeded to get off route I reminded him that there was a bolt anchor to his right should he need it. I was just worried about his friends dying on his setup. Bad idea, I was told to shut up, he knew what he was doing.

Later both of us ended up at the same anchor somehow. Very awkward. That was the quickest rap I have set up to date.

I guess that day was pretty traumatizing for the both of us.

By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 17, 2011

Followed. Lot's of bird POOP on the route on the upper section near the piton. Still a fun route.

By Yair Horowitz
Jan 9, 2012

Well this was an interesting time... I'm a pretty new 5.6 trad leader and I figured that for my first climb of the day at Mission Gorge I'd warm up on The Stairs, which Chris Hubbard's guide has at a 5.3. You may already see where this is going...

So I reach the awkward block on... The Stairs?... and I'm thinking to myself, "Holy F*** this is sandbagged." After pushing through the climb on lead I finally rap down and take another look at the guide and:

1. Okay, wow, that was "The Trauma." Damn.
2. "The toughest 5.6 lead you will ever do"

What a F'ing warmup! I'm happy, but I'll pay a bit more attention to the book next time!

(Separately, the anchors on The Trauma are set pretty far back from the face. Bring some extra cord to extend, or face some serious rope drag.)

By Andrew G
May 25, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

I think the best word to describe this climb is 'gross'. The climbing is either easy or awkward, but never challenging in a good way. Most of it is up polished Mission marble. And finally you, reach for a chalked up hold, only to discover there's no hold, and that chalk is actually just bird poop. There are many better lines to be had at the Gorge.