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The Tower (5.7)
This is a must do for the new leader. The route has 4 bolts. There is a horizontal crack 15 feet from the ground that will take a .75 cam if you feel uncomfortable climbing to the first bolt. The crux comes on the top half of the climb. Once you hit a large ledge you clip the third bolt and do a side pull on to a large foot hold. The climbing is good and straight forward. This is a fun quality climb. To get to The Tower from the ramp walk south on the loop trail for 125 yards you will see the tower with four bolts.
4 quick draws medium size cam optional. Bolt anchor and rap station at top of tower.
Chi leading The Tower
John Tyhonas on "The Tower", 5.7 at Mission Gorge,...
Mixed Lead for the Tower
Moving closer to the bolt.
My girlfriend Nicole Marcos TR'ing The Tower. 5.7+...
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008
real fun climb.
|By David Haughton|
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 2, 2008
Fun climb! My guide book calls this on a 5.8 but I'm too new to judge if that's accurate. Note that if you don't want to lead it there is a scramble up the right side of the tower and you can drop a toprope. Don't fall on the scramble though, you'll end up sliding down a fairly slippery slab.
|By steve richert|
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 17, 2009
This is a fun route but I would say for the new leader, the crux move is a bit committing since blowing this move could cause you to ledge out with one or both feet. My wife had an easier time though and she is short...I am 6'3 and it was a real stumper for me.
From: Platteville, WI
May 15, 2010
Fun Climb, great for new leaders. If your uncomfortable with the crux note that you can cheat to the left and climb up a small slab to access the fourth bolt.
May 17, 2010
New Leaders Please Take Note:
This is NOT a Sport Climb.
This is a mixed (bolt & gear) climb for 5.7-8 leaders.
New leaders, especially sport leaders, should think twice before running this climb out on only bolts.
If you're an experienced 5.9 leader, go for it.
The 4 bolts were placed in typical Mission Gorge style so that up to 4 gear placements could also be made, depending on your comfort level.
1. 1st piece - low down in first 10 ft, optional.
2. 2nd piece - in horizontal just before first bolt, strongly recommended.
3. 3rd piece - under small overhang just before third bolt, optional large cam. clipping bolt is easy, but serious fall if you slip.
4. 4th piece - after last bolt and before exit (slightly right) for those concerned about running out the finish.
|By Kyle Wills|
From: San Diego CA
Sep 13, 2010
In the online guide by Mr Messier, he mentions climbing the crack to the right of the tower as an equally interesting varition. The climbing to the ledge before the upper half of tower is basically 4th class, but theres is about 9 feet of 5.4 climbing and then a really fun (mission gorge standards) 5.7/5.8 crack section involving pulling over a bulge with a couple food fist jams. For those who have done the tower a million times and are looking for something different this is a good option.
|By Raquel ROCKY Robles|
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 12, 2011
2.22.11 - first lead! I used to put gear before the first bolt and after the last bolt. This is where I started gear placement. Great way to practice. It is a fun route!
|By Mark Pemberton|
Oct 17, 2012
An easy way to make this a purely sport route is to climb the sloped section to the right of the route, hook the first draw, and get lowered down to the start. This way you have some protection for the first 15 ft of the route and it isn't quite as sketchy. Enjoy
From: el cajon, CA
Oct 28, 2012
I rated this 5.8 because of the boulder-esk move near the top.
|By Josh Cameron|
Dec 23, 2012
Not sure why everyone loves this climb. Its not that good of a climb especially considering tha it is right next to the far superior "As the Crow Flies." Just say "no" to climbs that aren't much fun.
Feb 17, 2013
The move off the ledge to the last bolt is scary. Unless you are tall enough to get a quickdraw into the bolt before you make the move. Falling at this point would do some body damage if your not on that last bolt it feels like.
From: El Cajon, California
Feb 28, 2013
^^There are four bolts on the tower. The first bolt is like 25' up, if you do the face i recommend getting a piece in, someone said theres a spot.. Bolt 2 is fine and Bolt 3 is the bolt at the ledge, falling before clipping this is most likely and i think most dangerous. Bolt 4 is pretty close to bolt 3 and after the crux move your pretty much standing normal. To help theres a really good hold on the left for lie-backing and clipping bolt 3. :)
|By Jason Kim|
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 31, 2013
Fun route, IMO a sandbag at 5.7, considering the crux move.