The Tooth  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  B. Gillett & K. Younge, 2006 Season:  Faces North Submitted By:  Tony B on Aug 12, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is the hardest corner on the second tier and a good climb with continuously insecure stances, but great gear and reasonable rests.

Go up and left from the belay as if to climb on Handy Man, but quickly correct the course, placing a few stoppers below and hanging flake, and stepping out and right around a blunt arete and into a hanging dihedral. Place a 3" cam in the hanging corner and awkwardly power up into it (5.10+, good gear). Decide between continuous movement, or stopping at awkward stances for reasonably good gear the rest of the way up the corner. Arrive at the top of the corner, fiddle in a few confidence pieces, then move up slopers on an off-vertical wall (psychological crux?) to clip a bolt on the slab, and go to the bolted anchor. Finish from there as for Emissions Testing or Antifreeze for a second pitch, or one long quality pitch. There may be some considerable drag if you do not belay before the ledge atop the Third Tier.

Location 

This is the rightmost right-facing corner on the Third Tier, hanging 5 meters overhead above the bolt-and-gear belay of Emissions Testing, The Tooth, and Handy Man.

Protection 

Finger to thin-hands gear to a 3" cam. A #3 Camalot was surprisingly just about right at the crux, and the gear got smaller from there on.