|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]|
|FA:||Charles Hazelhurst and C. G. Morrison - 1916|
|Submitted By:||Tits McGee on Mar 17, 2009|
|Comments on The Tooth - South Face||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Aug 12, 2013
|Started this climb kind of later in the afternoon and was glad I did. There were like 12 people who had all been bottlenecking for most of the morning.|
By Andy Shoemaker
Oct 14, 2014
|Spent like 2 solid hours scouring the Source Lake trail for the branch off that the climbers trail takes. Can anyone provide any guidance in finding the climbers trail? We were on the lookout for cairns and any well traveled climbers path, didn't find it. We felt like chumps, since most trip reports say its obvious and easy to find.|
By Serge Smirnov
Jul 19, 2016
Summer approach: as the trail rounds Source Lake heading west, a group of 30+ ft high vertical cliffs is visible ~500' away on your left, at about the same elevation as the trail you're on. You want to pass below those cliffs, aiming for a wooded area below the left-most cliff. The trail starts in that wooded area, 30-50' below the bottom of the left-most cliff.
(The phrase "avoids losing elevation", found elsewhere in approach instructions, seems markedly untrue - you have to lose 50-100' of elevation to get to those trees, unless you get off the main trail way too early and bushwhack).
Once thru that first group of trees, continue traversing south - cross a 100' boulder field and look for a trail heading straight up the hill, near the boundary between the boulder field and the next group of trees.
By Serge Smirnov
5 days ago
Beta on the climb itslef
Climbing is easy, 3-5 pro placements per pitch semed enough to protect the 5.6-ish cruxes (I climb 5.9+, but I've read similar comments from people who do not).
Not as much fixed gear as in some old trip reports.
Can be led with mostly nuts (all nuts if you have both straight and curved nuts).
#2 or #3 camalot useful early on P1.
Small cams (up to gray camalot) will find placements for sure.
Long slings useful.
P1 belay - rap station (cord around a rock)
P2 belay - 120cm sling around a tree (bring your own sling)
P3 belay - small cams, medium cams, or rap anchor (depending on where you stop)
P4 belay - rap station (cord around a tree)
P1 - mostly straight up. Don't stop at the first (tree) anchor - go to the 2nd anchor (cord around rocks) if possible. There is a spot where going straight up is 5.7 - 5.8, right is much easier once you find the holds. 35m.
P2 - diagonally ip/left (flake, past a piton), then back diagonally right, past a sharp dead snag, to a small tree. 20-25m.
P3 - 3rd class scrable, a bit left overall. If done unroped, stop at the bottom of a diagonal rightward ramp with a finger crack (the ramp is easy but exposed) - anchor here works best with 10-15mm cams. If done roped, you have the option of continuing up the ramp (medium nuts / small cams), then more 3rd class scrambling to the base of the final wall, where there is a rap anchor and some slots for medium cams.
P4 - 3 obvious parrallel starts separated horizontally by ~2m, all have stuck cams ~5m off the ground. 20m.
- Left: 5.8, 3 stuck cams within inches of each other
- Middle: 5.7, 1 stuck green .75 x4
- Right: 5.6, 1 stuck yellow cam
Rappel: mostly obvious, except for the rappel anchor at the top of P2 - it can be seen from the P2 belay tree, straight down 3-5m. Good idea to look for it while belaying P2. It is probably possible to get to it from the top in 2 rappels without going unroped, but pulling the rope over 3rd class P3 terrain might bring some rocks down, so I prefer making the 2nd (from the top) rappel short (15m), then scrambling down 3rd/4th class terrain (15-20m).
I have no recent direct experience rappelling east from the notch, but I hear it's loose and the intermediate anchor is either hard to find or not always there.