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The Tooth
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Tooth - South Face, The T 

The Tooth - South Face 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Charles Hazelhurst and C. G. Morrison - 1916
Season: Summer
Page Views: 11,678
Submitted By: Tits McGee on Mar 17, 2009

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Bret on the last move before the summit

Description 

Scramble up to the notch that is just south of Pineapple Pass. Then contour around clockwise to get to the start of the climb. A direct scramble up to Pineapple Pass is not recommended, as this is the rappel route. The final portion of the contour around involves some class 3 to 4 scrambling, but it is short and unexposed. Some parties have elected to do a running belay here, but it is not necessary.

Protection 

Light Alpine Rack - up to #3 Camalot


Photos of The Tooth - South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: starting the link up of the first two pitches
starting the link up of the first two pitches
Rock Climbing Photo: Early Morning view of The Tooth in January.  South...
Early Morning view of The Tooth in January. South...
Rock Climbing Photo: leading up the second pitch - possibly the best mo...
leading up the second pitch - possibly the best mo...
Rock Climbing Photo: South face is the left side of the Tooth in this p...
BETA PHOTO: South face is the left side of the Tooth in this p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mason following second pitch of South Face 5.4 in ...
Mason following second pitch of South Face 5.4 in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Half-way up third pitch (looking down).
BETA PHOTO: Half-way up third pitch (looking down).
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the South Face Route on The Tooth 5.4 view...
View of the South Face Route on The Tooth 5.4 view...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Tooth
BETA PHOTO: The Tooth
Rock Climbing Photo: Mason on the Third Pitch of South Face 5.4
Mason on the Third Pitch of South Face 5.4
Rock Climbing Photo: Mason coming down from Pineapple Pass 1-21-13
Mason coming down from Pineapple Pass 1-21-13
Rock Climbing Photo: The Second Pitch of the South Face 5.4
The Second Pitch of the South Face 5.4

Comments on The Tooth - South Face Add Comment
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By Aawait
Aug 12, 2013

Started this climb kind of later in the afternoon and was glad I did. There were like 12 people who had all been bottlenecking for most of the morning.
By Andy Shoemaker
Oct 14, 2014

Spent like 2 solid hours scouring the Source Lake trail for the branch off that the climbers trail takes. Can anyone provide any guidance in finding the climbers trail? We were on the lookout for cairns and any well traveled climbers path, didn't find it. We felt like chumps, since most trip reports say its obvious and easy to find.

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