The Tongue is a Rudder
|69 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 450 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.7 [details]|
|FA: ||Unknown (FDA: T. Bubb/ J. Antin, 2/2013)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces E/SE|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Feb 4, 2013|
Perhaps this is the best route on the rock, and it is previously undocumented.
Approach as for the other Apostle routes, but continue South along the base past the main face. A huge, left-facing corner separates the 'sub-slab' from the main East Face. Go around this corner and uphill to this second tier of rock and then out left and up further to the southern-most edge. Boot up and climb the left edge of this face and the arete to the true rock summit. A few bulges and overhangs along the way can be climbed directly on jugs (5.7) or avoided at a grade nearer 5.2.
This route ascends the Southern-most edge of the entire formation, that being the left (Southern) edge of the recessed, East-facing "sub-slab" that lies up and around the corner to the SW of the main slab, up and around a huge, left-facing dihedral.
A light standard rack.
This route finishes on the "true summit" of the rock, Southwest of the previously documented routes.
To descend to the base, walk off to the West and skirt the formation to the South, coming down between this rock and 'Damascus', a small Flatiron to the South of the Apostle.