|Type:||Sport, 7 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Zeb Rafaker on Jan 7, 2010|
|Comments on Unknown (Right of The Peacemaker)||Add Comment|
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By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jan 16, 2015
|I think something may have broken off near the middle of p2. Super hard slabby section. After peeling off several times, going left/right and trying different things I yanked on the bolt to get my fat ass up it. Maybe I missed something but my partner ended up doing the same thing after me and i consider him to be a fairly good slab climber.|
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 16, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climbed this route today and was very disappointed at how closely packed in this climb is between its neighboring routes. The climbing is fairly interesting in the first two pitches, but its squashed-in nature takes its appeal away (for me). One benefit this climb may have is to serve as a passing lane for Peacemaker when it's crowded.
To add to the description by the OP:
Approach: From the point where the approach trail ends at the base of Absinthe of Mallet, head right. You will pass under Peacemaker after about 75 feet; it is easily distinguished by the row of bolts headed up a slab on its first pitch. Continue past Peacemaker and head uphill past a boulder on your right. The trail turns back toward the face and leads to a large staging area under Ides of Middlemarch. Drop your packs here. Rack up and scramble up and left to a ledge. Two bolt lines depart from this ledge, you will follow the left one.
Pitch 1 (5.10, 115’): Climb easy terrain past several overlaps. The terrain steepens after a bulge and becomes more difficult (5.10). Follow the bolts up to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10, 120’): Follow bolts upward on 5.7-5.9 terrain. A short, easy runout leads to a dike and more bolts. Continue up a few harder slab moves (5.10) to the left of a prominent brown stain. Continue to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: (5.10, 200’): Pull a few difficult moves right from the belay (5.10), then sling a chickenhead and pick up a bolt line to the left of a prominent crack. Pull through some 5.10 slab and arrive at a stance as the angle backs off. Keep to the right (ignore the bolts on Peacemaker within easy reach). Climb up an easy crack and place a few pieces of gear passing two more bolts. Pull over an easy bulge and run it out 30 feet on easy terrain to a belay just right of a prominent tree.
There are a variety of endings available for this climb. At this time I don't think this climb has an independent ending; I'm pretty sure that the description in the OP is for the ending of Mad Cow Disease (one could also finish on Stampede, Ides, or Peacemaker). To continue as described in the OP, use these directions:
Transfer the belay up and left about 40’ to a two bolt anchor shared with Peacemaker.
Pitch 4 (5.10, 80’): From the belay anchor choose the bolt line to your right. Climb past 5 bolts, place a piece of gear, and then climb up a short, grungy crack to a two bolt anchor on your left.
Pitch 5: (5.10, 80’): Climb the bolt line up and left past five bolts on tricky slab (around 10c). Continue on easy terrain up and right past two more bolts to the summit.
Rack: Few pieces are needed for this heavily bolted line; I'd suggest a light rack of cams including 1" and 3.5". An assortment of cams < 1" is helpful for the easy crack on pitch 3.
The topo for the southwest face of Sheepshead has been updated to include this route:
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Nov 29, 2010
|Probably one of the best routes on Sheepshead. Climbed it 3 times and it just gets better each time. Harder than Peacemaker with lots of varied climbing. Overhanging bulges, steep slab, little crack, thin face. You name it's there. Does require a light rack.|
By Joel Longo
From: Mooresville, NC
Dec 24, 2010
|I thought this route was a lot of fun. Like Mike said, lots of varied climbing. We finished up on the the last pitches of Stampede which was a fitting finish, however I haven't done any of the others so I can't say they wouldn't be better.|
By Stu Ritchie
Jan 18, 2011
|This is a very good route, one of the finest on Sheepshead. A #3 Camalot is really nice on the first pitch. It's definitely all that for 5.10b/c!|
By Justin York
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
|I agree with the others - this is a great route! Varied and challenging climbing. I think the first pitch is harder than anything on peacemaker, and had some .10+ moves IMHO. Only used a couple pieces of pro on the first pitch and third pitch (easy crack). Did the three pitches up to the large ledge, then finished on peacemaker in one long pitch. Great day!|
From: Tucson, Arizona
Mar 30, 2013
Superb route. Great vertical climbing on many sections with great (and solid) vert-slab crux moves. Finished on the 2 pitches right of Peacemaker's ending pitch, which seemed fitting, which was also excellent and has tight, tough slabmaster crux (well protected); don't recommend running those together as 2nd pitch needs a close belay.
Need a 60m rope to get from belay #2 to #3, or can belay off a couple cams. A light rack can't hurt. The .75 and .5 seemed particularly handy.
Seems like this superb thing should have a name... How about "Peace Momma"
From: Tucson, AZ
May 8, 2013
|This route was established by Scott Ayers.|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 11, 2013
|Was just wondering if a light rack is absolutely necessary for this multipitch or if it is like peacemaker and you can do without?|
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 2, 2013
|Great route with lots of cool moves and some pretty technical slabby cruxes. Did this with my partner today when another group beat us to Peacemaker. It was my first climb on the Sheepshead and we climbed without any additional pro. It made for a few spicy sections, but very manageable. Expect runouts on easy terrain.|